Oh Ballybunion with your dunes so high,

To hit a shot low and then let it fly.

Surrounding yourself with all that is true,

And views of the town and tides of blue.

To play within your spirit is a dream within,

And walk the grounds where to even begin.

A thrill it is to stand on tee number one,

But sad for sure when hole 18 is done.

Ballybunion lies in County Kerry along the Wild Atlantic Way.  The name (in Celtic) is derived from the “town” (Baile) of Bunyan (Buinnean) - a surname associated with the family that acquired the castle that stands in the town today.  Though stories of Vikings and phantom ships are part of this beautiful seaside town, when thinking of the name Bunyan, one might ponder the folklore of Paul Bunyan, the American and Canadian lumberjack who with superhuman strength and a stature that stands high above the rest, could move mountains.  Surely he would have been an asset in the creation of the railway, castle, golf club…not to mention the wars and invasions.

Ballybunion Castle was built in the 14th century by the Geraldines.  The grounds on which it was lies would be the site of an old promontory coastal fort of the “Clan Conaire,” a name Anglicized from “Conaire Mōr” or “The Great Hound of Conaire.”  In 1582 the castle was acquired by the Bonyon family only to be held for a year.  In 1583 due to Desmond Wars and Rebellion, the Bonyon’s lost the castle, and in 1612, King Henry VI bestowed the beloved grounds to the Fitzmaurice family, then Lord of Kerry and Lixnaw. The castle was held for well over a century until Richard Hare gained possession in 1783.  FINALLY in 1923, the Office of Pubic Works was granted guardianship over the ruins of the Ballybunion Castle and in the 1960s, the Kerry County Council gained responsibility.  Unfortunately, along with other destructive events, a bolt of lightening struck the upper part of the tower, destroying it.  What is left today is the 12 meter-high east wall.  Phew.  It reads like the chronology of the Old Testament.  So why mention it all in a golf review?  Because it is the relic that boasts one of the most sought after logos in golf.

It was 1888 when the Listowel/Ballybunion Light Railway, or affectionately called “Lartigue” began running from the Limerick/Waterford station. Mr Charles Lartigue, a French Engineer, searched out a home for his camel-inspired invention - think bags on each side of a camel, creating a single “rail” point of balance on top; thus, a monorail.  Due to a previous request and lobbying efforts by the people of North Kerry for transportation from Listowel to Ballybunion, it was decided that the Lartigue would be a perfect mode to try.  At the tune of £30,000, the monorail was opened, running for 26 years. Travelers would board the train in Listowel for the 10-mile journey to Ballybunion, and then in the reverse. It was used as transport for sand (used as fertilizer) from the dunes of Ballybunion, cattle, and eventually golfers that were vying to play the newly formed golf club at Ballybunion.  Unfortunately, due to devastating effects of the Civil War (1921-1923), the Lartigue was closed.  During its tenure, it is said that not a profit was turned, but it did bring people in to what would eventually be would one of the best golf courses in the world.

History has it that in 1893, the first holes were laid out in the dunes of the cape, and as Rupert Holmes would sing “it would plan an escape.”  As the officers from the Black Watch Regiment were vacationing in Ballybunion, they would lay out the first holes.  The light rail would bring a golf professional, thought to be James McKenna, to the quaint seaside town, with all intentions of laying out a further range.  Unfortunately, due to financial strains the golf course would be shut down in 1898, and would remain dormant for many years.

In 1906, under that pen of Captain Lionel Hewson, the land was nurtured again and 9 holes were put down.  A further three holes were added, giving game to twelve holes.  Then in 1926, under the appointment of Mr Fred Smith, another nine holes were designed and the full 18 holes were opened in 1927.  But it didn’t stop there.

In 1936, the golf course would be brushed throughout by redesign from Tom Simpson.  With a few other movements by John McAllister and finally Tom Watson, the shape and grandeur of Ballybunion would be what it is today.  To stand on the first tee at Ballybunion is to stand on the precipice of history.  Just another reminder that golf is not just about score, striped drives and flushed irons, but about those who brought the game to the location you base your feet.

Just across the street, only a wedge from the clubhouse is one of my favorite “Inns or Houses” in all of Ireland.  Teach (chalk) de Broc will be given its well deserved review in the “blog” section of AMW, but in this moment let’s imagine:  a wonderfully appointed room with comfy beds and high thread count sheets have just taken you through a dreamful night of slumber. You have awaken to a beautiful blue sky, smell of Irish coffee (well…maybe just half of the recipe) and the wafting of more calories than St Nicholas after cookies and milk.  After the full monty, take a breath, set an intention and walk across the street to hit a few balls.  It is time.

Ballybunion is a caddy course with no electric, gas or any other sort of “buggie” allowed.  You can shoulder the bag, push or pull it, or with the history and essence of the shoeless caddy firmly in tow, be fortunate to enough to be joined by one of the clubs loopers (please request in advance though there is no absolute guarantee).

Let's Play the Course...

The first hole of any golf course can set the stage, but when it is one of the most iconic in the world, it is a dream.  The first at Pebble with the tee box right next to the pro shop with people milling about; the first at St Andrews with the Royal & Ancient standing at attention and, most likely, a gallery of strangers; or the first at your home course when your friends are standing around, but the starting hole at Ballybunion is literally in the dead center of town.

Hole #1 - a par 4 - with the tee box set just to the side of the footpath, the scene (many times accompanied by thick fog)  is pure ghostly.  With the town cemetery that spans half of the right side, driver is your best shot.  And even though the left side seems legit, grazing the rock fence of the headstones will give you the best look into the green.  And hey, if your drive veers a little too far right, good chance that one of the inhabited spirits just might kick it back into the fairway, something the locals call a “Lazarus.”  More than likely, your approach is coming in from a healthy distance so taking it up the right side of the green will give you the best opportunity.  The early pot bunkers will test your every nerve and give you hesitation for the remainder of the round.  Pick a target, swing for it and go.  Start getting that putter hot.

And let the games begin.  The second hole is a doozy to say the least.  An ever so slight bend to the right and a beast of a par 4.  For lengths sake, there really is no other play but driver off the tee.  But it needs to be straight.  The fairway narrows to a sliver deep down and the green is elevated.  What you can’t see from the tee or the front side of the mound is the cheeky little Kitty’s River.   It is narrow indeed but can scoop up even the slightest wayward shot. From the middle of the landing area, you have a great chance to center the approach but make sure you take enough club.   The wrath of the roll back is afoot.  Course management is your deepest and most desired ally on the links of Ballybunion.  Checking your yardage is instrumental in success.  Too much distance between you and the destination, keep the journey in mind and add a stop along the way.  It is much easier to get it up and down from the front or near front of the green rather than the many bunkers and tick tacky rough that guard left and right sides. Tap and go.  You are just getting started…settle in.

The 3rd hole is just a well designed tough par 3.  And with the round only a few in, the placement is perfect.  Elevated tees to the green allow for the ball to fly a bit further, but it is still quite a feat.  With a grass trap to the right and bumpers to the left, it is imperative to fly the ball the distance.  If you need to bail, right is tight but left can take the mickey and push you out of bounds.  Grab your number, trust your swing, make your score and move to number 4.

The 4th is a gentle, but still strong, par 5.  This is your chance to breathe but not let your guard down. If the previous holes have given a wee bit of challenge, this is where you can get back on track. Keep it down the middle all the way along and you will fare very well indeed.  Whether the wind is with you, or against, my suggestion is to keep a 3/4 shot in play, it will most definitely serve you all day.

Rare indeed is it to have back to back par 5s, but not at Ballybunion.  The 5th is another good shot at balancing your card before heading into the belly of the course.  Knowing it sounds simpler on paper, just hit it up the center and you will be just fine.  Paralleling the ocean on the left, thus the town road on the right, the winds can come big off the water.  If this is the case, make sure you play for it as there is out of bounds all the way down the right.  Bail is left but that also can cause bit of a stir as the rough can give a hiccup when needing to get up and down.

The par 4, 6th, continues the show.  Bending a bit left about mid-way down the fairway, keeping the tee ball right will definitely help with the approach in.  Prevailing winds can play havoc with the shot in as the green contours right into the sea.  Wanting to aim left and let the wind push can certianly be the play, but if you are a "safety girl" (what movie?), then aiming for the center of the green is a "sure thing." (same movie!).  The calm has been drained from the faces of the strongest golfers as they witness their shot head for the land of misfit toys!

Ladies, and gentlemen, here we go.  The next 9 holes (well, actually 12) will taunt you, challenge you, push every golfing button you have.  But will there ever be a bigger smile?  Starting with the par 4, 7th…a big par 4 with the beach to the right.  The obvious is to keep it straight off the tee.  The less obvious are the Humpty Dumpty bumps in the middle of the fairway that can send the ball every which way but loose.  Anything long and left, well and of course right, will test even the softest of hands.

Though the yardage suggests a number that might cause your heart to skip a beat in glee, be a little wary.  The winds can make the par 3, 8th, anything but straightforward.  With undulations, and full tilt sections, anything short of the green can make for a really difficult short game.  Just keep your sights on the green and put your blinders on.  A par here is a great score.

And here we are, the 9th hole at Ballybunion.  Phew.  A bugger.  Long, narrow, topsy turvy, ticklish.  The wind can pick up quickly so shots with height should be left in the bag.  This hole sets up perfectly with knock-down, mid to long irons.  A few of them.  Put it back in your stance and grip down the club.  Swing 3/4 and just bump it up the lot.  Honestly, this should be the roadmap for most of the course.  Bouncing into the green will save the few hairs you have left on your head.  It is time to make the turn, though no clubhouse stop in sight.

Aptly named Killsaheen for the Irish folklore of Casper “the not so friendly ghost” this hole can send a haunting if not played correctly.  Legend has it that if one sees a killsaheen, days of life could be numbered.  That said, visions have been reported of a woman on a bridge, stretching across the sea, and thankfully those sightings have left those vulnerable souls alone. Though a fairly short par 4, the blind tee shot on number 10 can lead your strategy astray.   Look at the yardage book, trust your caddy, keep the ball out of the rough and you have a wonderful chance at starting the back nine with gusto.

Mmmmm…the 11th.  Could there be a more orchestrated, perfect hole in all of golf?  The 12th at Old Head comes to mind, Carnousties’s 17th, the 17th at Cypress Point, 13th at North Berwick, 9th at Royal County Down and 14th at Royal Dornoch.  Certainly great company.  The 11th at Ballybunion is just crazy good, topping the list as you stand on the tee.  Straight along the razor’s edge of the Atlantic, winds off the shore, fairway that runs fast.  Lining up the right takes vigor and might but it will send the ball down landing without a fight.  What is blind from the tee are the tiers that make this hole different, unique, spectacular.  Anything mishit or short can give a really awkward lie.  The green is tucked away so close to the sea that you can feel the mist.  This is a moment in golf you will always remember so take a few and send gratitude out to the horizon.  By the way, the name of the hole is appropriately named after Tom Watson.

There are par 3s in the world of golf that just leave you speechless.  The 12th at Ballybunion is wretched and placed at the perfect time.  Uphill all the way with a wind that can beat the cover off the ball, similar to the 17th at Pebble - though completely opposite, this hole can ask for the shortest club in the bag to the longest.  It will take every nerve, every ounce of courage to hit the driver, but if the wind is against, it is the play.  And chances are…you still might end up short.  With an elevated green and tight lies, hitting it short of the green can cause a bit of angst.

Don’t let the card fool you as this short par 5 is a cat in sheep’s clothing, or something like that. Remember Kitty’s River from number 2, here she is again on 13…this time she purrs and scratches in the most inopportune places.  For fun, kicks and giggles…just start humming the theme for the Pink Panther.  For the shorter hitter or if the wind is howling against, place the pieces of the chessboard accordingly.  Anything short has a chance of Ballybuinoin getting checkmate and anything left, well, beware of the of the castle will take the lead.

Humpty Dumpty sat on a wall, Humpty Dumpty had a great fall!  On this relatively short par 3, land the ball anywhere other than the green and the legend of the egg just might send you searching for the Nine Daughter’s (another story from the sands of the Ballybunion hourglass). Still, this is one of my favorite holes on the course.  It takes all the precision and hutzpah you can muster to send a dart to the green, but the reward is so good.

As there were two par 5s in a row on the front, there are two par 3s on the back.  The 15th is just a fabulous and architecturally magnificent hole.  The beauty from the tee is staggering and with a two tiered green, it is a fair design. Into the wind, it can be a 3-4 club landing area but beware of the pot bunker in the back.   That said, focus on the positive, see the shot and get to the dance.

Big Ben is in London and the Big Bend is at Ballybuinion.  Almost a 90 degrees to the left, this par 5 starts along the Atlantic before turning sharply inland.  A tee shot that gives you a chance of hitting up the center is key as the fairway narrows to a sliver.  Threading a needle might be easier than the next few shots but that 3/4 mid iron bump and run will set you up for success, with just two to play.

Back to the sea you go with a audacious par 4.  The nerve of this hole toward the end of the round.  With the tees high nestle amidst the dunes, the view atop is camera-worthy and deserving of pure thanks.  With only a few more moments on the course, it is time to slow it down.  The 17th grants you the chance by being a mid size par 4 with a temperamental approach if you squeeze it too far left.    The panoramic scene is mesmerizing, spiritual, all connecting.  What an experience so far.

The walk up the 18th hole takes you on a journey of the mind, spirit and body - your own personal trinity.  Ballybunion demands every cell in your golfing head to stay present and think your way around the golf course. To arrive at a shot, observe the lie, glance ahead at the pin, then select a club calls for all synapses to fire on call.  A walking meditation, the Old Course moves you through time, space and memory, giving all of it in return.  And your physical self has endured, most likely, the wind and rain and 4-5 hours of strenuous stepping.  But pulling it together as you approach the green, what a day it has been.  Whether you have conquered the golfing demons or left a few balls on the course, the true reward lies deep within.  Ballybunion captures your heart in a way that is hard to explain.

As you leave the 18th, take a moment and sense of what is behind, not the past but the presence that is now a part of you.  There are golf courses for play, for score…and then there are golf courses that will teach you about life, and about you.  A Mindful Walk asks you to discover those special feelings in the crevices of your spirit, to open your whole being to the experiences on the course.  Ballybunion, thank you for your lessons, your indelible spirit and your ability to pull the best out from ourselves.

Oh…and I highly suggest taking a gander through the golf shop.  There is no way you should leave the premises without a remembrance, one that will keep you smiling and dreaming of your next trip to Ballybunion.

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