To take the drive over Conor Pass

Whether a adventuresome lad or courageous lass.

Arrive at Ceann Sibeal clubs in tow,

If the wind is howling, do hit it low.

Rare is this course, the people and land

A tapestry only created by God's hand.

If joy is to be had through play and fair talk,

You will find it here in golf's great walk.

The finger of land that stretches somewhere around 30 miles into the Atlantic Ocean on the southwest coast of Ireland is a magic as Cinderella’s Castle at Disney World.  With mountains towering over the wondrous Irish countryside, and the steep, craggy cliffs that shoot down to the grainy, but soft, sandy beaches, Corca Dhuibhne (Gaelic for the area) is somewhat of the road less traveled.  Lovely villages that expose the native language, where literature speaks of tradition and culture, and tranquility meets the most majestic of scenery.  Dingle Peninsula is special, full of history and archaeological finds.

Dingle is a step back in time due to the lack of high commercialism and certain types of agriculture.  The area's ability to preserve what is and what once was is a gift to all who reach its shores, whether hiking through the green grass or finding the rare walk through Ceann Sibeal, golf clubs included. Research shows that no other landscape in the western part of Europe has the amount, the depth, of archelocial monuments as the Dingle Peninsula.  With over 6000 years of continued population, a combination of unique folklore and mythology speaks to all that have come before.  Over 2000 sites have made it through the millennia; forts, stone huts and chapels dot the countryside. It is as if Van Gogh or Monet dropped a paintbrush from the heavens, finding the most tranquil, serene canvas, finishing a spiritual quest through their artisty.

Heaton's - Dingle

Built through time, the peninsula is surrounded by the geological aftermath of plates rising and land shifting, creating the ranges of the Slieve Mish, Brandon Group and Mountains of the Central Dingle Peninsula.  Mount Brandon stands tall in the midst, bellowing the footsteps of any adventurer or nature enthusiast, requesting the presence of all who don the day pack, picnic lunch, journal, camera accompanying.

Words, phrases, paragraphs...the creative and imaginative minds and hearts of the  writer’s, poets and magnanimous storytellers. who have penned during their stay on the Dingle Peninsula.  Spend time in any pub, join in the frolicking music and local commentary, and no wonder it is a land well known to frame the spoken language.

Conor Pass.  Certainly one of the most perilous and dramatic drives you will make in Ireland.  Running from the town of Dingle to Kilmore Cross, the road is narrow and full of twists and turns, sure to make your head spin.  The views are breathtaking from every angle, lakes and mountains, wildlife and waterfalls.  Though you do not have to drive over the pass to get to Dingle town or Ceann Sibeal (Dingle Golf Links), it is well worth the effort, providing your heart and stomach are semi-iron clud. But if you can keep it together, this sneaky little drive will warm your bones.

Clubhouse - Ceann Sibeal (Dingle Golf Links)

Being the most "westerly" golf club in Ireland, thus Europe, Ceann Sibeal (as truly known) was originally laid out on a parcel of land just east of Dingle, the town. Shortage of a clubhouse, the Ashes Pub agreed to usage and Ceann Sibeal had a home. Side note: Ashes Bar and Restaurant is still in Dingle, a "stop" most certainly not to be missed. Old fashioned counters and deep wood paneling give a presentation as if time stopped. Drop by for a wee bit of chatter, and of course, a Guinness, the stories to take home are well worth the effort, and it really isn't effort.

The native links was formed in 1924; however, similar to many courses in Ireland, the land lease was lost to local farmers and the club disbanded.  But golf was booming and the locals wanted a place to play. Finding a piece of land further west and out on the tip of the peninsula, the people of the club began dreaming of a new home, and new place to play. With prime property secured, the calll was made to Eddie Hackett and Christy O’Connor Junior. In tandem, one of the sweetest courses in the Emerald Isle became a reality. The holes were laid out according to the land.  It is simple, yet rugged, natural and raw. Though not directly on the water, there is a menacing burn/stream that moves through the course.  The land lifts and tilts ever so slightly and the ground can be extremely hard. If the wind is blowing, hold you hat, Dingle can give you all you can muster, even if a wee little track.  The views out to the Atlantic are beautiful, the mountains mesmerizing, and the people as kind as there ever were.  This is what you get to look forward to....

Arriving at Dingle is unassuming, it is welcoming, it is charming. Unlike much of Irish golf in the summer, you can get paired with the gent down the street, or the lady from across the way. Very few international swashbucklers are on the tee, so peace be had. And, if you can, strap the bag across your back as walking the course at Dingle drowns the comparison of any stroll in the park. What Dingle lacks in distance, it makes up in so many other ways.  It takes a thinking cap to get through the course, so get it on. The hole names are written in Gaelic, the mother tongue of the area. The authenticity is just another tip of the hat. Pronouncing is one thing but trying to translate can be difficult. We gave it the Rudy, our best effort.

Poll na Cruaiche - "Hole of the Steel" - The first hole is as straightforward as they come.  That said, with bunkers peaking up and a burn just before the green, navigating the yardage sets pace for the day.  Take your drive up the middle and settle in for a nice approach to the green.  Pick the right club, don’t think twice, swing.  The green will be hard, no doubt.  If anything go long and get creative with your short game.

Poll an Sealaín - "Hole in the Sea" - The par 3s at Dingle are not much on the card.  However, with the winds fierce, club selection is key.  At the second, this could not be closer to the truth.  With bunkers guarding the front and steep runoffs sliding off right and left, the middle of the green is the target, regardless of the pin position.  Putts run toward the ocean most of the time, but do look at where that burn is. It is a sinister little thing, full of spit and vinegar.

Sibéal - "Sibéal" - Regardless of which tees you are playing, take a step up to the back markers.  With views of the Atlantic, it is a great time for a holiday photo.  Make note as to course strategy, even play hole out in your mind, then back it up and start with the drive. It is a straightway par 4, but depending on your swing style, find the area of the fairway you feel comfy.  The two dunes close to the green act like the camels back, so without touching the sides, split them and nestle up to the pin.

Poll an Phíobaire - "Piper's Hole" - Follow the road on this one.  The 4th is a par 4 that parallels the local pathway  Humps and bumps throughout the fairway pinball your drive so take that into consideration as you figure out your plan. My guess is the club member has a favorite mound, knowing exactly where to hit if for "local knowledge." You might even ask if you are lucky enough to be paired with one who is in the know. The burn works its way back through the fairway, toward the front part of the green.  Distance control is what is needed both getting to the green and staying on.

An Giolcach - "The Reed" - The second par 3 of the day shows up on the 5th.  Again, not much from the card, but there is enough of a spell to need the wizardry of Harry Potter if one's focus slips. The green is fairly generous but is protected by a few menacing bunkers.  Aim for the fat part of the green and make your two putt (maybe one) and move along little doggie!

Gotta Dubha - "Gotta Black" - This might become your favorite, as long as you can keep it tight.  With OB to the right, favor the left on this manageable par 5.  Keeping it low against the wind will certainly help, and if it isn’t windy, a favorable knock down will just get the ball further down the landing strip.  Follow it up with a couple of putts and the 6th is in the books.

An Mionnán - "The Oath" - My love for the 7th… it is immense.  Such a fun, good, golf hole.  A par 4 straight up, with a slight bend to the right, presenting a few options on the chessboard.  If you want to take it over the wispy grass to the right and can get there, checkmate. But if moving pawn to castle, then bishop to rook sets you up for success, then the play is yours. Whatever way you take the hole, do so with an "oath" of conviction and commitment.

Na Deifréaracha - "The Depression" - The first real big hole lurks around the bend.  Demand for a powerful tee shot results in an open approach.  It takes a bit of guts and a free flowing swing to get it moving off the tee at the par 4, 8th. But pick a target and let it fly.  Let the lead out of the arms and move that club.  Doing so will help with the distance in for the approach.  As with previous of the holes, green side bunkering keeps track of any wayward shot.

Ifreann - "Hell"  Par 4 for men and par 5 for women.  All in all, just a demanding and heck of a hole.  That burn that has been moving through the course, bears it forbidding head in front of the tee box, giving you enough of an image that makes the golf ball listen.  But really... it is a figment of your imagination. Close your eyes, block it out and swing. Taking it down the left side allows for a bumper of a second shot and then a short approach in.  Beware of sliding off the putting surface, one way or another, but this one… go at the pin.

Slip into the clubhouse for a little refresher, maybe a nip, before moving onto the back nine.  Carpe Diem to all who walk the grounds of this sly little course. Take a moment of gratitude for yourself and to all before you, the great minds who made this possible. What a legacy, what a contribution to those who search for the meaning of golf. Have I said how much I love this course?  It is golf as it should be; a walk interrupted by sport.  Just glorious! 

An Tiaracht - "The Lordship" - The back nine starts with a powerful par 3.  Distance and direction are in demand as you take in the spectacular views to the Atlantic. Accept this hole as it is and aim for the middle of the green.  Anything left or right slides down into the trenches or rolls into the bunkers. Buckle your belt, ladies... pull up the skirt, the next few holes are sugar to the soul.

Coilteán - "Coltean" - A lovely par 5 interrupts that next walk.  From the 11th tee the hole bends to the left halfway down the fairway.  There is a sweet little bridge that is a perfect target, if just to the right.  You can take a nice swing with the driver, leaving a good chance at the green.  However, do take a look at the yardage book as that looming burn can come into play.  The approach is open so take it right at the flag.  Bunkers do guard the left, right and back but you are not going to any of those.

Túirnín - "Tower" -  The 12th hole might become your favorite par 3 on the course, it is mine.  Cows to the right and bunkers to the left.  A sliver of a green asks a lot of you, even if the distance is short.  This slice of the course is one to beholden.  The wind can be blowing so take that into account. Talk to the cows as you go, listen for a few tips for the green. However, if you talk back... maybe you shouldn't have had that nip!

Casadh Cosaí - "Footsteps" -  A wonderful par 5 arrives at the 13th.  Bending to the right off the tee, if you have length, this is for you.  Go ahead and take it over the corner and leave yourself with a chance of hitting the green.  That said, there is a stream that tries with all might to anticipate, then eliminate, those shots that take the chance!  Make sure you take enough club, going for the back of the green.  It the wind is wrestling, the ball can come back and trickle on down into the burn.

Binn Bhreac - "Mountains" - Not exactly sure the meaning but this is a wonderful hole.  The first time I played it, the melody of Pinball Wizard came into mind as the ball ricocheted from mound to mound as it searched for a stopping point post tee shot.  The par 4, 14th, is so much fun and showcases the magic of Irish golf.  Watch the left side of the green as it is treachery.  Just keep it to the right part of the green staying a tad cautious, though in the most positive of thought.

An Eascú - "The Rescue" - The 15th is one of the longest par 4s on the course, not just in yardage but all in all.  Finding the fairway isn’t that hard as the landing area is generous, but do stay on the short grass as the approach from anywhere else is temperamental.  If you don’t have the club to get to the middle of the green, hit something that you can then bump it up.  Guard against leaving it right or left of the green as it is debauchery!

Comharsain Phiarais - "Peer Neighbors"  The 16th, par 4, and all of it.  This hole always gives me a bit of stink.  A dogleg to the right, just a tad, a deep strike of the tee ball is key.  If the wind is up and the ground is hard, it is very difficult to hold the green so just play smart and you are good to go. Think bump and run, especially if the lies around the course are a bit tight. Easier to put it back in your stance and 3/4 it than skinny off the turf with a possibility of too much.

Buailtín - "Beating" - This is so timely as it is one heck of a hole and you are tired about now. It is a beating! The 17th is a rugged par 4 and just one from the clubhouse.  Stream, bunkers, bumps and bruises along the way. The yardage book is your ally so pull it out of the pocket or bag and let it guide you.  If it requires one more shot that normal to get there, that is okay. Take the medicine, rely on your short game, you can beat old man par!

An Clabhsúr - "The Closing" - as sad as it is. Rarely is the 18th on my favorites but this one is an exception.  There is so much to it, perhaps a little gimmicky, but not really.  As fair as it is fun, the 18th is the culmination of a grand day of golf. There are bunkers in the fairway, there is a strange little wall that protects the green, and there is a lone pot bunker just because.  The clubhouse comes in view but keep your focus, the Guinness will be waiting. Take the walk, hit a shot, walk again. Breathe it all in. Keep it down the middle all the way until your hear that tinny sound of the ball falling to the bottom of the cup. Ceann Sibeal.

What a joy.  What a gift.  What fun!  There are very few places like Dingle.  Perhaps it is the location, perhaps it is landscape, perhaps it is the people.  Very few make the trek (especially over Conor Pass) and the club knows it.  For that, and just because it is who they are, the welcome from the staff is magic. And then… a wonderful meal at the clubhouse….trust me, it is worth it.  Hard to even say as dining in Dingle is special so staying two days is really a must. And if you really want to do it right, stay for a few more.