Amidst the dunes and sands of Lahinch

Live the goats that mow if in a pinch.

Rare is there a course that fits the bill,

For all who come to share in the thrill.

To walk its paths and feel its glory,

Of grass and sea, the history and story.

Bringing golf to the grounds for it to stand,

A most brilliant test in all the land.

With the Atlantic Ocean to the west of town, the River May to the South and the Inagh River to the north, Lahinch in Irish translates to “partial island.”  However, the original name - Leach Ui Chonchubhair, or O’Connor’s Cairn, takes to history when the O’Connors of Corcomroe (or the Clan Corc), resided in the northern part of county Clare’s sea coastline. They would build the Dough Castle, a structure that would serve as their main stronghold, situated prominently to control both land and water.  Disturbing history shares that the castle was the slaying scene of one of the O’Connors, Lord of Corcomroe, by his own nephew.  The remains were laid to rest at the end of what is now main street of Lahinch, and a cairn established in his memory.  Alas, “O’Connor’s Cairn.”  It is also to note that the castle as seen today near the 7th hole of the newer Castle Course is but a ruins of several since the original date of 1306.  The sandy grounds that are splendid for a golf course, are quite unsuitable for the weight of heavy stone needed to sustain the foundation of such a regal formation.

Ringforts, or small circular fortified settlements, built on the road to Ennistymon near Lahinch date to the Bronze, Iron and Middle Ages (or up to about 1000 AD).  This suggests inhabitation long before most of the notable history of what we know of Lahinch today. Up until the 18th century, the town was home to only a few fisherman.  However, by the end of the 19th century, Lahinch became a sought after seaside resort.  Unfortunately, after a severe storm hit the town in 1883, visitation slowed down until the implementation of the West Clare Railway in 1887 leading to the inauguration of the the Lahinch Golf Club.

It was March of 1892 when a few gents visited the dunes of Lahinch. Alexander Shaw, Richard Plummer and a notable other “officers” of the Black Watch Regiment of the British Army     arrived to town in search of land worthy for the game of golf.  After surveying the grounds, walking the dunes, it was agreed that Lahinch would be just that spot.  Using just feathers and sticks as fairway liners, and minds full of imagination, the first 18 holes were laid out.  One nine would settle on pasture side of the Lisconner Road and another nine stretching over the dunes near the golden sands of the beach on the other side of the road.  The very first round of golf was played on April 15, 1892, just one month after the inaugural visit by the officers.  And might it be noted, in the land of leprechauns and pots of gold, it was Good Friday when golf at Lahinch was born; and what a blessing that would be to the golfing world.

In 1895, with golf now booming along the shores of Ireland, it was decided to bring Old Tom Morris over from Scotland to redesign the original layout, “making proper” a course to play.  Taking the holes from the east side of the course, or other side of the road, using the sprawling dunes and magnificent landscape, Old Tom Morris set in motion what would become the foundation of the course today.  Tournaments were held, matches were played; lads and lasses, gents and ladies walked the grounds that Old Tom built.

Now with course full of worthy to play, it was time to turn the next chapter.  The hiring of Willie McNamara was key in pushing the club toward a brilliant and everlasting future.  He served both as golf professional and greens keeper for almost three decades.  Forming his course philosophy and links education from studies at Westward Ho! in southwestern England, McNamara would stress the importance of conditioning and care found only in the top golf clubs in the world. Notable tidbit - Willie was the cousin of Tom McNamara, one of the founding fathers of the PGA of America and PGA Championship.

With transport from the West Clare Railway and accommodations at the Golf Links Hotel Lahinch had become an early golf destination.  People would come from England, Scotland, the world to take a chance at playing the links along the southwestern boundary of County Clare.

Golf from Old Tom continued for decades before the 1926 arrival of Dr. Alister MacKenzie (renowned designer of some of the best courses in the world including the indelible Augusta National - to which he would co-design with Bobby Jones).  Given £2,000, full send on control, and a land only God and Mother Nature could create, a new links would be designed that would rival any in golf. The blend of Morris and MacKenzie would stand for the next 70+ years.

Lahinch was now a town of tourism, of vacationing, of seaside lounging.  As previously noted, it brought people from all walks of life, from all parts of the planet.  With flights from the US becoming shorter and more frequent, the international golfing scene was becoming persistent and very lucrative; and the game was changing.  Golf clubs that were once made of persimmon wood were now compounds of graphite, metal, titanium, composites of all.  Golf balls were spinning faster and distances were getting longer.  Those courses that were built a century before were needing to “keep up with the Jones’s” if they wanted to maintain a spot in the perennial top 100 and on a golfer’s bucket list.  Lahinch was no different; thus, in 1999, the final tick to midnight was struck.

Movement of holes and restructuring of greens.  This was the goal set before Dr. Martin Hawtree, a third generation Golf Course Architect from London known for his renovation work at clubs such as Royal Birkdale, Portmarnock, Fontinebleau, Yarra Yarra, Toronto GC (and several more).  Now with the fabric of golf royalty, the combination of a Morris, MacKenzie, Hawtree, design…Lahinch Golf Club is solidly one of the most sought after tee times in all of the land of clover.  In fact, during the summer months, finding a four-leafed clover just might be easier.  Wind, rain, cold.  If you get a time, just don the woolies, rubbers, and gilets and shove off.  Pull in the spirits of Morris and MacKenzie.  Let them walk with you over the next four hours.  Lahinch is a classic out and back course, so load up on all that you need and mosey into the day.  A bit to note… there isn’t a driving range, but a few nets to warm up.  The practice green is quite fun so if you have time before the round, start the bets there.

The Course…let the goats determine your day.

The first tee is conveniently placed just outside the Proshop doors.  All who walk past have a chance to see the nerves and jitters, glee and delight for all who take the box.  A par 4, straightaway from point A to point B but can look a bit of a sidewinder.  Depending on the wind, driver is your choice.  But you need only to get it down the middle with a nice poke and you can get to the surface quickly.  The fairway runs left to right and there are a few bunkers hugging the the high side.  Anything falling off right adds yardage to the flag, but that is okay! The green is a bit elevated so if you can fly it in, great.  If you land short of the green, ponder the idea of a bump and run to the target.  Though today’s game centers around a multiple wedge system, golf of old is quite different.  Keeping it low with 5-9 irons will get you around the course with much less frustration, and it is a lesson in shot making.

The second hole, aptly named “the Village” double dog-legs toward town.  With menacing fairway traps, reachable off the tee and then speckled before the green, this is one tough hole to only be 30 minutes into the game.  If the fairway is running fast, then distance isn’t as much of an issue, but if it is wet and sticky, with a wee bit of wind, this is a beast.  Again, just hit it down the middle, hit it close or on the green, make the putt.  Sounds way too easy, right?  Well if your confidence is already rocked, just look toward the pub not but 100 yards from the green, and know your reward is only a few hours away.  Fish and chips or corned beef and cabbage? Tea or Guinness?.

Through the mounds and over the hills, the par 4, 3rd hole is beautiful.  The green is tucked with a bend down the hill, and a slight blind tee shot.  A drive taken over the walking path and down the center will leave you with a nice approach into a downhill green. Just make sure you take enough loft to get over all the hairy mess and two small, but mischievous little bunkers that stand at guard to the left and right of the green.

Here comes the drama and the pureness of Lahinch.  The fourth hole, lovingly called Klondyke, is an Old Tom Morris design that could easily be one of the most unique holes in golf.  If you can hit your driver with distance and direction, than off to work you go.  There might be a sincere opportunity of hitting this short par 5 in two.  However, if you are like us mere mortals, then think of accuracy over length.  Favor the right side of the fairway to bring it back to the middle, and avoid the dunes lining both sides, if you can.  The second shot is either a banger of a fairway metal or hybrid up an over a 35-foot mound that lies right in the middle of the fairway, or a shot to land just shy of the same hill. Prior to taking a swing, look for the man atop the dune as he will be waving a flag giving you the okay to play or not; green means go and red means there are still lads and lasses on the green.  If, by chance, your shot doesn’t take flight over the mound, by all means… take a wedge, address the ball with the position to your higher foot, line your shoulders the lay of the land and swing up the hill.  Just get it out!  There is a great chance for a low score and equal chance of…well, just keep smiling.

And then the par 3, 5th hole - the Dell.  Another Old Tom Morris original that would never be designed today, and that is a shame.  Taking in all of Mother Nature rather than moving dirt here and there, this wonderful little hole can “take the mickey” but guaranteed will leave you dreaming of a return to Lahinch.  The tee box stands next to the “Road to Moher” so all the tour buses can watch as you take on this hole.  A white rock on top of the grassy hill just before the green is your point of reference, and that is all you get.  A predominantly blind hole asks you, once again, to trust in your abilities; to let the ball get in the way of a good swing.  Favoring just a tad left of the rock, or hitting a nice little draw just to the right, will tender a grin indeed.  The green is very narrow, so striking the shot on yardage is key, though that number should add a club or two, ensuring flight over the hill.

And the gifts just keep coming.

The 6th hole is just “super-cali-fragil-istic-expialidocious,” and appropriately named, “Paradise.”  A lovely par 4 that takes you from the middle of the course to the Atlantic.  A tee shot needs to be well thought as distance can be a bit of a hassle here.  Check with your caddy, or yardage book, and hit a shot to land short of the menacing pot bunker the inhabits the middle of the fairway.  To cut a bit of the dogleg, take the tee ball down the left with a little fade and you are in opportune placement for a downhill approach.  Enjoy the walk and have your camera ready as you make the turn toward the green. The view…golf, town, the beach… Let’s Go Fly a Kite!

A lovely par 4 dogleg left along the beach is next in line.  The 7th continues to test your driving skills as direction is key.  A poke down the middle will give you a perfect line into another downhill approach.  Staying out of the rough is vital as this is where Lahinch can really bare its teeth.  Pot bunkers on each side of the green come more into play than you think.  The green slopes toward the beach so aiming right comes to mind, hmmm…there is that right trap.  Anything to the front of the green can roll back…and there is the left trap.  But, lest not worry! Just aim to the middle.  And if distance isn’t with you on this hole, landing it 15-20 yards short of the green will leave you a nice bump and run in…which could very well be the play.  And the view…classic Ireland.

The 8th hole is one of my favorites.  Though not long, it is all carry.  It arrives at a time when your swing should be warm, your mind focused and your imagination on fire.  Stay with all three and this hole will reward you.  Lose one and it can bite.  This little par 3 is a delight, complete with a peaceful walk through the dunes and sights into town.

Though you can never ease up at Lahinch, the 9th at least allows a bit of a breather.  A good par 4, it is very straightforward with not a lot of trouble.  That said, it still takes a few positive strikes to get to a very long putting surface.  Just keep it down the middle all the way and four leaf clovers will lead you along.

Take a minute to reflect.  You have just played one of the best nine holes in links golf.  In my opinion.  There isn’t a weak hole, there isn’t an overly manufactured hole.  It is just pure, raw, brilliance.

Starting the back nine with a long par 4, the 10th hole is a bit of bend left that demands length off the tee. With a more generous landing area than many on the front, this hole is reminiscent of the first, just a couple of hours before.  You can let it all out with the driver, swinging with freedom and it feels so good!  The approach travels over a bit of a valley before reaching the green.  Bunkers can be in play but really shouldn’t be.  Just follow the green rolling road and the goats of Lahinch will rise to greet you!  As with many of the putting surfaces, make sure you read the greens as they don’t alway follow the “breaks to the water” rule.

Another spitfire of a par 3 is next.  The 11th is straight downhill with a lovely view out to the sea.  Full carry over meandering grassy knolls, strategically placed green-side bunkers and tough rough insists that you choose the right club. Anything short, left or right will certainly require a creative short game, but then…you have that!  Lahinch challenges you to believe, believe in yourself all the way around.  Such a lesson in life!

The 12th hole is a bewitching par 5. Lining up with the castle in the distance, a driver on the screws is critical here.  A long carry over the grasses on high, boldly taking on the beach to the left, it will test your every nerve.  That said, smooth swinging will get you where you want to go.  The lay up is down the right side of the fairway.  Those with distance, might…and it is a might…be able to go for two, but really look at the reward.  Sometimes a little bump and run with a 7-8 iron from just shy of the green is the ticket.

Most people make comment that the back nine doesn’t match the front.  I disagree.  The management of your game remains high on alert through the next stretch.  If the fairways are running fast, and the driver is going straight, there are many chances to score.  However, if the wind is blowing and ground is soaking, it is just a slog.  A fun one.  But phew. The par 4, 13th is just this. Carry on to the green and move on.

A narrow little bugger is next. Par 4 straightaway, the 14th can give a bit of false hope as the drive is open and all knowing; however, it is about now that the mind can wander.  Grab a bit of energy, take a breath and hit the shot down the middle.  A slightly uphills approach will ask for correct mathematics.  It is all carry in due to the twin dunes guarding the green.  Fly it in and a good score is yours.

The 15th is beast for men, but ladies…this is where you can shine! A proper tee shot can land on a stretch of runway that leads to the green, giving a bit more distance and a chance of the next shot rolling up for approach.  It is straight, narrow, but forgiving once you get to the fairway.  The green slopes back to front so make sure to take that into account.

An elegant par 3 is next and if anywhere else in the world, would be widely acclaimed… as with all the others on this course.  A bit downhill, but all carry, requires loft and touch into the green.   There really is no room for error as the rough will eat any wayward shot as will green-side bunkers and false front runoffs.

Approaching the 17th and only two holes to go…keep the heart beating, though sad it might be.  This par 4 runs right along the Lisconnar Road (to the Cliffs of Moher).  That said, it is one of the more generous landing areas on the course.  Just keep your wits about you and find the right half of the fairway.  You will need distance off the tee for a chance at the green, but just keep going.  Take a minute or two as you walk across the tee boxes of the Dell (5th hole), let it sink in that you have been walking the course of Old.

Hole 18 is a good finisher, if not in the same vein as some of the other holes.  Wide landing area but out of bounds left.  Your legs are a bit weary right about now, so do make sure they fire through the swing.  Right is better than left though there are a few sneaky little bunkers to catch the odd ball.  Long hitters can take a swipe in two but the real play is a layup to a bump into the green.  Slow the pace as you near the green as this is the last hole for the day.  As you tap the ball into the hole of 4.25 inches, close your eyes, look to the skies and all that is around.  What a day in your life and a blessing from the goats of Lahinch.  It is time for The Nineteenth.

The bar atop the clubhouse is a welcomed sight indeed.  If you are lucky enough to share a cuppa tea or Guinness with a local, by all means do.  The stories and jokes are truly will keep you mesmerized and in sheer laughter for as long as the glass stays full.  And do ask about legends of the goats, by golly… there are but quite a few!

A town known for leisure, Lahinch is one for the ages. To walk the streets of main is an amalgamation of old and new.  Golfers with clubs on their back, shoppers rustling in and out of shops, surfers in bare feet donning wetsuits, all along a town with a cairn at its helm.  Bakeries in the morning, pubs in the evening.  Irish music fills the night with a magic of delight.  Countryside that extends to the Cliffs of Moher, not just a few miles away, and people walking their dogs along the gorgeous beaches of the Atlantic.  What is not to gush over, what is not to embrace?  A day in Lahinch will leave a mark on your soul, one that will both tickle and taunt you.  Smiles will cross your face as you reminisce about your day at Lahinch as the people of the town and golf club are its cornerstone. Upon driving away, be reminded of an old Irish blessing…”May your home always be too small to hold all of your friends.”