Shine from the house a light so bright,

The head of old boasts vigor and might.

So few can stand next to a land so pure,

With views that astound, challenge for sure.

A magical walk as cliffs drop to the sea,

Dive deep within and let your heart be free,

To accept such a gift of what nature will show,

Be present and light and let gratitude flow.

In a land of emerald, filled with sheep and clover; on a formation of geology that jets out into the sea of blue, history has unfolded for centuries on end.  Castles and lighthouses, picnics and sightings, flora and fauna, rare is this hallowed ground.  To describe the setting is all but unfair as there really is no plausible and appropriate way to bestow the taste, smell, touch, feel, and sight of this magical place.  It is a gift unlike any other.  Only Mother Earth can create such a grand stage to then let the imagination of man paint a mural worthy of da Vinci, O’Keefe, Picasso, Rembrandt, Monet, Van Gogh; or Carr, Hackett, Higgins, Kirby, Merrigan and O’Shea.

Dating back centuries to the original scape, a lighthouse has been on premises since the mid 1600s, though records show reference to “lighted beacons” a couple of thousand years earlier.  Sir Robert Reading would be commissioned to erect a number of lighthouses around the southern coastal region of Ireland, one of which would be not but 7 miles from the village of, now, Kinsale.  “Cottage-style, it would include accommodation for the keepers and families.  In 1814, a second lighthouse, this one circular, was constructed, standing over 42 (13 meters) feet in height.  However, due to the setting and moments of difficult weather that would adjoin, in 1853 it was decided to build another tower, this time at the location that is to this day. Several “lighting” iterations over the years, until finally in 1987, the lighthouse of Old Head became fully automated.  Being a beacon for so many, shining its light for the safety of incoming fishing boats and larger vessels, it was also witness to one of the greatest maritime war tragedies in modern time.

On May 1, 1915, on its 202 voyage, the British-registered ocean liner, Cunard’s Lusitania left the harbor of New York on a return trip to Liverpool.  Unfortunately, she never reached the English homeland shores as just six days later, on May 7, 1915, whilst in war determined territory,  the Lusitania was torpedoed by a German U-boat.  Taking only 18 minutes to sink, the loss of 1199 of the 1959 passengers was devastating.  Now, standing on the patio of the modern day clubhouse, looking out toward the sea, history reads of Virginia Woolf or Edgar Allen Poe.  The unthinkable happened just 11 miles off the shore of the Old Head; it follows both literary master’s in an eerie and darkly dramatic sorrow.  How profound it is to then sense your feet just moments from the past yet firmly rooted in the present and the surreal and most magical scene before you.

To exercise the top of the bucket list is to tee off at The Old Head at any time, on any day, of any month.  However, to have a chance to play this masterpiece a few times over the years, my absolute favorite is to be the first ball out, just after the sun peeks over the horizon, coffee in hand, bag on the shoulder.  There might be older and wiser courses amid the rugged shores of Ireland and the mystical Highlands of Scotland, but there is nothing like the sunrise on the Old Head. And quite frankly, anywhere in the world.  What John and Patrick O’Connor, and team, created in 1997 captures the “Golden Globe,”  “Oscar” and “Best in Show.”

If you are fortunate enough to spend the evening prior in one of the luxurious suites on site, rise just a wee bit early and sit on the lounge outside your sliding glass door, breathing in the fresh air.  Whether your time is early or later in the day, breakfast at Old Head’s epicurean restaurant, de Courcey’s (aptly named after the family who owned the land in the 12th century), is a must  A walk through the Lusitania Bar, with an historic feel, adorned with photos and documents of time gone, and your cuppa is waiting. Take a few minutes and soak it all in, set a few intentions, stop by the golf shop and tag that sweater, polo or jacket, and move on to the practice tee.  And if you are a dew sweeper, take that steaming drink of choice and mosey.  It is just part of it.

The steps from the clubhouse to the practice tee feels like a jaunt through the time.  Dog and sphinx-like statues proudly protect and somehow give you that mythological feel of another era. Odd for a golf course?  Perhaps, but it seamlessly fits at the Old Head.  And so it is.  After a strike or two on the range, find that sweet spot and move to the caddy and starter shack, receive your goodies (ball marker, ball repair, tees, scorecard) and set your sights.  Your dream round is about to begin.

Though the opening hole is relatively benign, the adrenaline of the mystery and the excitement of the day, can make for a tough start if you don’t take it seriously.  Par 4 from all tees and a slight bend to the right, hit it up the left for a chance to land it in tight!  Smart bunkering around the green surely can cause a slip. With a slightly elevated surface, just shoot for the middle.  Start strong and smart; then pause, look back, reflect and march on to the second.  Get your camera ready.

The second tee shot will simply leave you in awe and a foreshadowing of what is to come.  Breathe in and let it go, then step up and let it flow!  Up the right is prime location as anything to the left is virtually unfindable, and when the course is running fast, you might want to add a fade, just to give yourself a chance at a soft landing.  Stay right all along and the green will be your friend.  And ladies, this is a good chance to finesse a beautiful start to the day. Just keep it straight and seal a positive fate!  A par 4 is yours to take.

Drama continues to unfold as you reach the par 3, 3rd. Rocks from a different millennia line the left while mounds of local grasses form the right.  Depending on the pin placement, and your bravado within, the shot you choose gives a chance to win or lose!  It is suggested to work the ball up the right, away from the depths off the sea.  Though agreed, if this is your one time to play the Old Head, there are a few holes to “get it!”  This is one.  How many pictures can you take?  Thank goodness for digital.

Traveling over to the 4th and the teeth of the beast.  A beautifully designed par 4 that, again, hugs the cliffs to the left.  With a landing area that slopes severely to the water and a fairway bunker ready, willing and able to accept an aggressive line, placement is key.  However, with a slight bend to the left, having to hit it out to the right just adds a club or two for an already long shot. An elevated green encourages the higher shot in so look at the yardage.  If you can’t get it to the short grass on the approach, perhaps take two to come in.  Bump it up close so that a wedge of sorts, or bump and run, can give you a chance.  Strategy.

With out of bounds along the left, teeing off on the the 5th is straightforward, slightly uphill, with little to no bend.  However, a menacing and intentionally placed fairway bunker takes prisoner the long hitter, so course management here is your ally.  A slight draw would be ideal as the fairway does slope to the right.  Ladies, grip it and rip it!  Keep patient on the green as there is quite a bit of reverence to be had.  Keep it simple and move on to the 6th.

Nestled beside the rock wall is the fairway of the 6th.  Keeping in line with all of the others, a properly placed tee shot is essential.  Out of bounds left and a lone sand excursion to the right, can make for a bit of an uneasy mindset, but pick a spot in between and trust your arrow.  The second shot is shorter from the right side, but if you have length in your quiver, then send the tee ball a tad left for a chance at the green in two.  Green-side bunkers make for landing a fairway metal or long iron a bit of a challenge.  That said, another thought is to play a lay up yardage and take it in with a wedge or short iron of choice.  Great opportunity for birdie on this dainty par 5!

Everyone has a hole that just captivates their eye.  Though there are more than a few of those at the Old Head (all 18?), the par 3, 7th, just has it little piece of my heart.  Maybe it was the gorgeous feeling of a pure knock down 7-iron with just a little butter-cut into the wind, landing two feet from the hole, that did it, but the architecture here is just beautiful.  A stealth of a hill left and the abandonment of the cliff to the right, your heart will be pounding at impact.  But trust yourself and the club you select.  Follow through to the target and take the trek ahead.  If you do bail left, take your medicine and chip it to the big and back part of the green as the slope away will send you to the brink below.  And by all means, enjoy the view back into the village.

An ever so slight dogleg left along the sea, the 8th is a dandy.  An average length par 5 but with a interesting twist. Around the green is a trench of deep rough, get in and it is hard to stop the ball on the way out.  So play the hole accordingly, maybe even take the driver out of play.  Be strategic and look at the yardage book, selecting clubs that will keep bumping up the fairway in safety.  The green is the reward for once you get there; your putter will come alive as it is one of the more accommodating surfaces.

Arriving at the 9th, emotions are all over the place.  Nine holes are already in the history books, and that is a tough nut to swallow.  But there is the back nine ahead, so step up to the tee.  Driver is the play here but keep your focus down the center of the fairway.  There is a bit of a mess to the left and little to the right, but with precision in your mind, you are good to go.  The second shot is the longest of the day, especially when the wind whips through.  If you have that low burner shot in your arsenal, good time to take it out.

Halftime at the Old Head can go low or extra high.  Major decision of the day - do you go for the routine peanuts and candy bar, throw in sandwich, or do you pony up and go for the oysters and champagne.  The choice is yours but by all means…hydrate, and then continue writing your story at the Old Head.

The 10th is an intriguing par 5.  A boomerang to the right about midway, with the remnants of an ancient stone structure standing guard to the entrance of the green. It is a definite reminder of where you are and what was here long before.  It is a ticklish hole that can leave you bullish to the back nine, or a bit of a bear.

Interesting enough, given the placement of the next hole anywhere else and it could be the signature hole, but here the par 4, 11th hole, is a bit tidy compared to the other cinematic holes.  That said, don’t let your guard down as it is a wonderfully designed hole.  Best take the correct the club and even though there is an opening to the right, any short or mishit shot and the mounds of Pinball Wizard will send you into the gorse.

And here it is.  The signature hole, at least in my opinion.  Plain and simple it is daunting, it is captivating, it is the crescendo, apex, pinnacle and also one of the most spectacular holes on Earth.  From every tee box, from every vantage point, from every lie, this is what shot placement in golf is all about.  From the driver, to the second shot, to the approach, you must golf your ball.  If there is ever a time for positive self talk, this is it.  Bail is right of the tee, but that sets you up for an interesting second.  Keep the hands soft and calm and your swing in the best of sequence. Breath in and out, visualize the shot and swing.  The fairway narrows to a sliver toward the green so aim a little right and leave out any fright!  This is your chance at the 12th of the Old Head, so be a bit cheeky and take a few risks... and a whole lot of pictures!

The 13th hole, could be one of my favorite par 3s in the world, at least in the top 3 (yes, the 16th at Cypress has to take the blue ribbon).  Short and intimidating, yet gutsy and exhilarating.    The narrowness of the hole messes with your noggin just enough to send a shot wayward, but if you can stay calm, focused, on task, it is a great chance to tweet.  That said, the green is tricky so getting it close or on the “right” side of the hole is key.

Onward to the 14th…just an arduous par 4.  Long, slightly uphill and if against the wind…phew.   Your feet are barking right about now and your body just a bit weary.  This is where you dig deep and test that stamina as this is the hardest hole on the course, again…IMO.  There isn’t a cliff or any real drama, it is just a good golf hole, placed at the right time. Just keep your wits, tame the beast and mosey.

The last four at the Old Head, there really are no words.  If these were the last holes you ever played, consider yourself eternally blessed.  Dramatic, explosive, crazy, paranormal, staggering, epic - just add an appropriate adjective.

Starting with a short, drivable, dangerous par 4, number 15. Remember that “get it”?  Take out the driver and let it ride.  Favor the left side as anything to the right is a no go.  Anything short and a bit left is ideal for a lovely bump and run to settle in for a good score.   And, please, take your time walking this hole, the next four holes.  We talk of Pebble Beach and the spiritual aspect of those final holes, folks - the spine tingling, toes wiggling, soul grabbing…it is all here, plus a lot more.

Number 16.  Did I say 13 was my favorite?  This is a close second.  The wind can whip as you are on razor’s edge here.  A solid knockdown is favorable if it is blowing, and if it isn’t…take it high and let it fly!  It is a manageable distance but with a small landing, so just play with integrity and wisdom.  Block out everything in between you and the green and hit a dart.

The snake winding its way from left to right with all its slithering might…and this fairway is a fair bit tight!  A sweet and long par 5 with its share of twists and turns, dips and valleys.  Staying in the 17th fairway is a must.  If there is a breeze moving toward the sea, make sure you leave enough room to the left as the fairway slopes into the crevices below.  Swing easy if it is breezy!  The green has acceptance so once you get there, let your putter be your guide.  As my coach would say…”hit it down the middle, hit it down the middle, hit it on the green, make a putt!  Simple as that.

By the time you arrive at the 18th, your senses are on high alert.  Your eyes have seen things for the first time, your hands have felt the distance between you and the club, your nose has taken in the salt air that will stay with you forever, and your ears have heard sounds of extraordinary species of birds that will keep you singing all the way home.  But it is the taste at the end of your round that will leave you salivating, etching an indelible smile on your face.  However, you are not there yet!  Back to the course.  Before going to your tee box, do yourself a favor and stand on the tips, the black tees, and just look at the scene.  Not only is your equilibrium challenged, but it is a heck of a poke to get it in position for approach.  This is a fabulous finishing hole.  Nasty but fair, flamboyant yet calm.  Bending to the left, take the drive down the right and bring it in with flight.  Tap whatever putt you have, turn to the waters and take a moment.  What you have just experienced is mastery by man, yes, but moreover a testament to the grandeur and raw power of Mother Nature.  The thousands of years it took to form the land beneath you is awe-inspiring and miraculous. For me, it is always a moment of sheer gratitude.  To stand on these grounds, to be in the company of native wildlife and to bask in the beauty of the local flora, praise be to God, there really is no other place like the Old Head.  Now… with a your heart full and your soul alive, saunter up to the patio and order the best Guinness in all of Ireland, and that is another story for another day.