Nestled amidst the dunes on high,

Tee the ball and let it fly.

With the Harbor of Barrow for view and sight,

Gauge the prevailing wind to hit it tight.

In honor of the late great golfing “King”,

An ode to Arnold the course will sing.

A links and experience that is a must,

In this you need to absolutely trust.

Settled just north of the bustling city of Tralee, in County Kerry, a golf course like no other stands.  As the late great Arnold Palmer stated “I have never come across a piece of land so ideally suited for the building a golf course.”  Before getting into the nuts and bolts of the links, let’s step back in time for a little background on the area.

Barrow Harbor, an inlet off the southeast portion of Tralee Bay, was once a gateway to early trade, commerce and, yes, smuggling - mostly of tobacco.  It lies between Fenit Island (historically referred to as “Fenit Within”) and the mainland (historically referred to as “Fenit Without”).  The terms make reference to the walls (or no walls) of protection surrounding.  Fenit Island is home to Fenit Castle and the mainland has the now extinct Tawlacht Castle. Barrow Castle, a round structure, dominated the entrance to the harbor at the time when attackers were prevalent. History has it that a metal chain would extend from the Fenit Castle to the Barrow Castle, rising above the waters when pirate or Viking ships would attempt entry.  Over the centuries estates were built by famed families, including the Barrow House that still remains.  The House deserves its own review but for now, much of what is known about the local land can be found within the books set inside this beautiful home.

As with many other golf courses around the area, Tralee Golf Club has a prologue and few opening chapters before the present day story begins.  Early records give an inaugural date of 1896.  As a 9-hole, Tralee Golf Course originated on the now Sports field in Tralee before moving just one year later to Fenit Island.  Not but 20 years later, with a design by Captain Lionel Hewson, a new 9-hole course was opened in Oakpark.  Sometime later and Tralee Golf Club was on the move again, this one to Mounthawk (now downtown Tralee).  Finally, a piece of land near Barrow Harbour and the Tralee Bay was purchased and Arnold Palmer commissioned to create what would be his first design in Europe.  With a statue to honor the King residing over the waters of the Bay, Tralee Golf Club opened in 1984.

Teeing off at Tralee is one of golf’s absolute treasures.  From the first hole, starting just outside the pro shop, you take a journey back through the ages, from the times of pirates to the era of dukes and earls.  And as Arnold Palmer claimed…“I may have designed the front nine, but surely God designed the back.”

The first hole, Mucklough, is aptly named for the rock that jets out of the sea just to the left of the green.  As an opening hole, it is both fair and honest.  It sets the tone for the day.  The views beyond the putting surface are both haunting and mesmerizing as if you start your round in the morning, the fog creates an aura of another King, that of Stephen.  It is just off this shoreline where pirates took the seas.  Standing on the tee, note the speckling of sand that dots the fairway, then focus on the landing area as it is fairly generous; stripe it down the middle and walk with confidence.  With an abundant green, taking it to the center allows you to get the round underway.

The second hole, a par 5, hugs the coastline on the right as it bends the same.  With a rock wall that lines the left, driving on this hole is a bit of a conundrum.  If the wind is with you or even moving off the shore, cutting the corner is possible, but is it the play?  On a sharp day, taking it up the left with a little butterfly cut is the perfect shot.  From there it is straight on till morning.  Longer hitters can arrive in two; however, if you are taming the shrew, a nice iron or hybrid up the neck will leave you a lovely distance to the magnificent 2nd green.  With the waves crashing and the Slieve Mish Mountains in the distance, take a moment to breath in the beauty.

Remember the story from the intro - the castles, the guarding of Barrow Harbor?  It is easy to see why the name of this hole is “Castle” as Barrow Castle is just steps away. A sweet little par three that shouldn’t a give too much an issue.  Club selection depends on the wind, as with most par 3s in Ireland.  If you are lucky enough to have a caddy along, this is the time to start trying out your Irish tongue.  Having him/her on your side is going to be a benefit as the courses opens.  “Is fearr Gaelige bhriste, ná Béarla cliste.”  Basically, broken Irish is better than clever English.

The 4th hole starts at the base of the Barrow Castle, extending back along the rock wall, this time on the left.  Though born in Scotland to a mystical female warrior, Cuchullain was a heroic warrior that defended Ireland against invaders. To stand on the tee with the castle behind you and all that lay in front, it is your turn to defend against the wayward shot.  Take the driver and hit a dart down the middle.  Most of the time the wind will be your foe, so remember it and just let go!  The approach is all uphill so add some club and hit it on the screws.  This is an homage as what is to come.

Number 5.  Head west young lass, and go back to the sea.  A par 4 down the hill, boomeranging to the right.  Traps up the side more than a few hundred hards away, tempt you into taking the driver and cutting the corner.  With length, you have the golden ticket, without…well, the land Oompa Loompas will gather the ball and take it to the chocolate factory!  The green slopes away from the fairway so make sure you land the ball a wee bit short and let it nestle up to the hole on its own.

If you are lucky you would have noticed a few birds taking refuge along the 5th hole, Chough’s are their name.  Only found in the western portion of the British Isles, this bird is known for its aerial acrobatics, a skill that would certainly be of help as you move up and down the fairways of Tralee.  This par 4 is a strong dogleg to the right, narrow and fierce.  To play this hole with smarts is key.  A downhill approach helps with yardage but make sure you favor the right hand side of the green.

A chance at redemption from the previous few holes.  The 7th hole is a short par 3 that is pretty benign.  However, missing it left brings in the hair of the dog and bailing right can leave you in one of two bunkers that guard the entrance.  Just pull the string back and let the arrow fly.  Keep it simple and leave the green feeling elated and ready for more.

Meander a short ways to the beautiful par 4, 8th.  Ride the waves on the left side all the way down to the green.  The fairway narrows so watch your yardage off the tee.  If you are a long baller, back down and keep it in the fairway.  The rough to the right is damaging and can leave you with a downhill, sidehill goofy lie and with the waters to the left the pirate’s life for you!  Keeping it down the right half lets you drop a few clubs due to a slight elevation change. A magnificent hole.

Coming up the hill to the Hare’s Lair and the 9th hole.  It is a short par 5 but littered with sand pits.  A bit like the game operation, just miss the sides and you can pull out the bone. Unlike most of the links courses, the green comes up next to the clubhouse so keep your head about you and punch up the fairway a few times and drop it in the hole. Take a few moments and breath in the salt air.  And move on.

Here we go.  If you are a Monty Python fan, you have found the holy grail.  The back nine at Tralee is the gold that has been hidden near the shores of Barrow.  It is supreme, epic, dope, and just beautifully fantastic.  Please take it all in as it just doesn’t get better then this.

The 10th hole is an easy transition to the next chapter of “Taking on Tralee.”  Mirroring the 1st hole, the par 4 takes it back to the seas.  With the rough elongated and a few treacherous bunkers, a drive down the center will leave you adorning the Green Goddess of Tara - full of peace and serenity.

Number 11 will test that newly found peace as it will have you grasping the club, quickening the swing, muddying the mind.  But breathe.  The twists and turns of this sneaky par 5 demand your attention.  A generous landing area off the tee leaves you with second, semi-blind shot through the grassy mounds.  Let them open up and take on the hill.  The view at the top is worth the any and all of the shots in between.  The coastal dunes and beaches lure you to a soft lullaby as you gather yourself to the next hole.

Though this is called “Bracken”, it better described as the steep snake from Harry Potter’s Sorcerer’s Stone.  It is a wicked par 4 that is one of the hardest you will ever play.  And I mean ever.  Length is only part of the equation as direction needs to be from point A to point B on each shot.  There is a cavernous hill to the left that is just plain crazy.  If you find yourself having to make the trek down, take your medicine and take a lofted club and find the fairway.  And as much as you might want to take a lofted club out of the bag for a basic chip shot, put it back in and find another way.

Ahhhh..the 13th hole at Tralee.  There are par 3s and then there are par 3s.  Arnie’s army could be hiding in the grass bunker between you and the green.  It is just a brilliant hole from tee to putting surface.  Though the optical illusion creates an uphill distance when in actuality it is pretty level.  To that end, you still need to take an extra club or two as it is all carry.  The rough is gnarly so just shoot for the big part of the green, walk away with a two putt and take it all in.  Tralee should have a tee shirt “I came to Tralee and survived holes 12 and 13!”

I just love the aesthetics of the 14th hole.  With a double fairway, duplicate bunkers and justifiable downhill yardage, it is just pleasing to the eye.  Combine this with the view to the Irish countryside in the background and you swear you are in a scene of Disney’s “Darby O’Gill and the Little People.”  The pot of gold is at the end of this hole as the views are just stately.  A par 4 that gives a bit of slack, but letting your guard down it will take it all back!   As with the rest of the course, if you find yourself visiting the rough, just take your medicine and wedge it in to the fairway. A sleek putting surface so keep it below the hole.

Get your motor running as the 15th will tempt you to floor it 0-60 in no seconds flat.  A design from the King that will be deserving of the crown, or thorns.  One of the shortest par 4s you will play in Ireland but also one of the most devastating.  If you are playing a match, make sure your partner lays up with a mid iron off the tee.  Once in play, go ahead a rip it over the grunge.  Wish upon your lucky stars and you might find the green (or just golf ball).  Such a beautiful hole and such allurement!  Appropriately placed as the final holes at Tralee will just build the case for a return.

Shipwreck.  What a fitting name for the 16th.  A par 3 slipped right along the edge of the bay with an eery quietness beneath the dunes.  It is magical, ghostly, otherworldly.  Standing on the tee you can almost envision a scene from Treasure Island.  Castle ruins, majestic peaks, steamy fog.  Gain your sights and with a slight smile on your face, take the club back and swing the club with a ‘hi ho and a bottle of rum!  A smaller, not quite postage stamp, green is ready for a well struck shot.  No walking the gangplank for you!

The 17th.  Simply one of my favorite’s.  Maybe because the daily Guinness is not far, or that the waves, even when crashing, are tranquil, or maybe it is because it is a bounty of a hole.  Short by the card but long by the carry.  A tight driving hole with little to no room for error.  This is a hole that you leave your shoes and gather that speed.  Get it all because the approach can be grueling if left at a distance.  Take enough club and you will be just fine.  Once you tap in, turn to the waters and take an early bow of gratitude… to Mother Nature, to your God, to the King.  What a journey thus far.

And the 18th.  Though not as rough and tough as some that came before, this is no slouch.  A dainty dogleg par 5 to end the round.  Similar to the 9th, what is lost in length is gained in trouble.  Dotted with menacing little bunkers, the fairway is otherwise generous and the green receptive.  Summon the energy within and bask in the walk.  Take a few swings in between and finish the round as Arnie would want…with wonderful memories and the desire within your heart to come back.

Tralee.  What a giver you are.  From the history that surrounds to the mounds that abound.  A visit to your land is a blessing and a gift.  To stand on the grounds that centuries built and to play a game that we love and admire, thank you!  No doubt that I will return time and time again.  OH, and before you leave, take a gander through the proshop.  My last visit resulted not in a shirt, jacket, sweater (since those reside in my closet already) but a print from a local artist, a member at Tralee.  It sits in my office and reminds me of a few thing. 1. Take time for the things that matter in your life. 2. When in doubt on the course, SING!  3.  And HI HO, HI HO…give love to all you know!  To live through the world of golf is such a privilege.  As you leave the gates of Tralee, smile and know that “An té a bhíonn siúlach, bíonn scéalach!” - He who travels has stories to tell.”