There is a place where peace is found

Where spirit runs through hallowed ground.

A personal walk over land that flows,

From earth to sea as the wispy grass grows.

No wonder Payne loved Waterville so much,

The people, the club, his heart it did touch.

With an energy that soars and a soul so deep,

Lasting memories all lifetime you will keep.

Book of Invasions?  Mythical invaders, the Milesians?  Sounds a bit like “Land of the Lost” but in reality they are so much a part of the aura and spirit of Waterville.  Playing such an important part of the mythology of ancient Ireland, Waterville and the Ballinskelligs Bay was the landing spot for Cessair, the grand-daughter of Noah. Legend has it that knowing of the floood, Noah sends Cessair to the “edge of the western world” to escaped. She was the first inhabitant of Ireland, and earliest Irish Goddess, displaying power and sexuality to all that was around her.  The flood eventually would arrive taking all but one It would be 700 BC when the final lot of the invaders, the Milesians, would find their foothold in the area.  Ruminants of their existence and archeological sites are found throughout the Waterville area, providing historical content for the Kingdom of Kerry.  The spirit, the aura, the sense of these creatures can found throughout your experience in this seaside town.  Just close your eyes, open your mind and let it all in.

So many sites to see around Waterville

"The Green is considered a sporting one, and the views from it are very fine while the Atlantic breezes that blow across it are invigorating and refreshing. The hazards are such as are usually to be met on the seaside course."  One would think that this would be an excerpt from a recent blog post or journalistic endeavor, but in reality, it is piece from a publication dating back to 1897.  Included were credits to a Reverend J.G. Fahy, for bringing the game of golf to Waterville.  With golf courses sprouting up in every nook and cranny of Ireland during the 19th century, it would be no different in the town on the western tip of Kerry. And though so very accurate in description, the course of today would not come along for another 70+ years.  To that end, there is evidence that a very humble nine holes were in place by the late 19th century.  It came under the guardianship of the Golfing Union of Ireland, now renowned as the oldest Union in the world.  It was run by the Waterville Athletic Club on behalf of and for the Commercial Cable Company.

It would be the mid-19th century when the first trans-Atlantic cable would become a reality.  The cable would extend from point to point, between nearby Valentia Island and Heart’s Content, Newfoundland.  Workers came from all over to this relatively unknown seaside town, to help in construction and to work in the cable station.  During their off hours, it would be the game played with a club and ball that would boggle their minds and captivate their hearts. Being quite a distance from any already established course, they would stay close to home and play the holes that would eventfully become part of the grounds as it is today.

Waterville isn’t easy to get to in today’s transport, but in the 1880s, to get to the very southwest side of the peninsula it took gumption, effort and gusto. One would first take a train to Cahirsiveen (16.4 km or 10.2 miles) or Kenmare (60.9 km or 37.8 miles).  After arriving one of the town stations, the traveler would then board a stage coach  for the bumpy journey to Waterville. Despite the angst and difficulties of finding the town, the game of golf continued to grow for the next several decades.

With the opening of the Butler Arms Hotel in 1884, accommodation would be available to those working for the cable company, and the wayward golfer coming to the seaside town.  Due to the new found reputation for the golf course, and creating quite a fortune for the Huggard Family (second owner of the hotel), a request was made for the course to be managed/looked after by the Butler Arms.  This would greatly assist in the upkeep of the golf club until shortly after WWII when the course would be left unkept and would then cease to exist.

The Waterville House

The inveigh Peninsula is truly one of the most spectacular sections of land in all of Ireland.  With mountains of green and glens running along, islands and capes stretching into the wondrous Atlantic, it is offers a home to species of birds and herds of multiple animals, Favorite pasttimes include fishing for sea trout and angling for salmon, along with walks along long sandy beaches. There is ample space for walking, cycling and hiking through the hills of the peninsula.  There are lakes throughout with trails leading to everywhere and anywhere.  Though the weather can be a bit of a mist, rustling through with winds on high, there is rarely a space such as Waterville.  The colors simply shine through the rainbow of Waterville.  It is no wonder dreams and a calling would come to this little town. The village has continued to attract many famous celebrities over the years, such as Charlie Chaplin, Tiger Woods and Mark O’Meara…. To name but a few!!!!!

Beauty around the Ring of Kerry

The original Waterville Golf Club would lay dormant for the next many years before John A. Mulcahy would take a trip that would change the scape of the area forever.  With terrain as close to perfection and natural beauty second to none, it would be the dream of Mulcahy to build one of the most spectacular links courses in the world.  Joining Mulchay would be the incomparable and very successful Eddie Hackett and the esteemed and incredibly knowledgable American professional, Claude Harmon.  It would not take long as Mother Nature’s hand gave them quite a start, but in 1973, Waterville Golf Links, as we know it, would open to praise all around the golfing world.  It isn’t fabrication and it isn’t exaggeration… What they created could very well be one of the most challenging and beautiful courses anywhere in golf is played.

Taking the drive around the Ring of Kerry takes you on a tale of multiple cities.  Whether you come from the north road or south road, the entrance into Waterville is breathtaking.  Taking th drive along the strand, up the wee little road and into the parking lot of the golf club, what a journey ahead.

Understated and modest, modern and relaxing.  The few steps from the car to the clubhouse exposes you to a fully appointed and beautifully adorned pro shop, the check-in counter and a local fare restaurant.  The staff at Waterville is just simply, kind.  And though everywhere you go in Ireland you will find humility and integrity, this wondrous place takes it to the next level.  Maybe it is the generations of Professional Higgins, maybe it is the spirit of Neil Cronin and Payne Stewart, and maybe it is a bit of leftover mythological aura.  But Waterville is special and you know it the minute you set foot on the premises.  So, check in, grab some golf balls, a cuppa Joe, or Irish Tea of sorts, and head to the first tee.

Let’s Play the Course...

The course is situated in a distinctive and almost solitary setting with the Atlantic Ocean, Inny River, Inn Estuary and native wetlands.  To stand on the first tee is to witness all that is pure and good in the world.

Appropriately named the “Last Easy,” the opening hole, though fairly straight, is long and long.  It could be cold, it could be windy, it could be wet.  But all promise is that it will be one of the best challenges In golf you have ever had.  So tee it up, aim down the left and let it fly.  There are three fairway bunkers  to the left that will “Venus flytrap” the ball if at all offline.  Unlike a few of the Irish links, driver is necessary at Waterville, so get your timing from the start.  A nice drive will still leave you a fair distance from the green, but nothing that a long iron to hybrid won’t save.  Ladies, there is a good chance for bravado, so just keep your wits and keep picking targets.  The green is fairly open so always remember that the bump and run is available as a shot into the green.

Waterville Golf Links

A par 4 for men and a par 5 for ladies, the second hole starts with a drive down a shoot and into a fairway guarded by a few tenacious bunkers. The landing area left will allow for the next shot off grass, but anything to the right will need to be sprayed from the sand, though it does take quite a poke to get there.  The next shot, or two, or three, will take you to a rather lengthy green, caged in by a few menacing sand traps, one to the left and the spectacles to the right. It is important to look at the yardage before the approach as it is a 2-3 club difference from front to back.  However, a little shorter is better as there is a bit of trouble over.  Ladies, this is your hole.  Take it to the house!

And the teeth of the dog are just staring to chew.

The third hole is another long and arduous test. The bold will take it down the left side, skirting the fairway traps as you go, but it needs to be striped to have a chance to get to the green in the next shot. With the slight dogleg to the right for the approach, it takes a bit of guts (and strength) to set up over the water and bring it in with a draw.  But this is the shot.  If length isn’t in the quiver, then keep it down the middle to set the next shot up for a bump into the green.

I remember the first time playing this hole, the shape, the colors.  It is just one of those that is so pleasing to the eye, so optically divine. A relatively easy hole, this is a  stunningly spectacular par 3, with a tee shot of the 4th takes you through the wispy dunes full of gorse to a sliver of a green.  There is not much room in any direction for a mishit and yardage to th spin is key.  The walk from tee to green begins the story of the next many holes.  Take a bit of caution around the green as there are a few catch-alls, so just take it to the center and you will be fine.

The first par 5 of the course is a “long way to Tipperary!” A drive down the fifth takes you over a garden of gorse, a walk that takes you through a journey of time, and a view to the mountains in the distance.  The design of the 5th hole is just splendid.  It will take a few good shots to get it to a place of approach.  The fairway does ope 2/3 of the way down but until then, anything overly aggressive can leave you in the tall grassy dunes.  But no thinking in the negative, just keep it straight, maybe hitting a few knock downs along the way.  The green is a bit uphill so remember the rule of an extra club.

A good walk is never spoiled at Waterville as the walk is a spiritual journey, no matter what your card says up until now.

Another brilliantly designed par 3 is in front of you.  As with all the holes, there is a bit of length to the sixth.  Though straightforward, the tee shot splices the dunes, arriving at a green that slopes to the right.  Taking the correct club off the tee is important as the target is the toughest part of the hole.  Anything to the right will slough off to a catch all, leaving a bit of difficulty for a chip.  Just play the hole smart and all will be fine!

The seventh.  This is one of my favorites on the front nine.  Though fairly straightforward off the tee, do favor a bit of the left hand side.  Menacing little pot bunkers stand guard around the right so taking your drive over the left half of the grassy knoll is a perfect place to settle your approach.  It can be a bit of a lengthy one so is there is too much distance between you and the green, lay up for a bump and run in as a nice open green to the right invites you home.

Taking it back to the house...the 9th at Waterville

This is where the course becomes its own, not that it already hasn’t…but the dune, the partial blind shots, the endless walks of wonder.  It just cannot be said enough. A sinister little par 4 raises its head at the 8th.  Though not lengthy on the scorecard, it can play a lot longer than it appears as it is all about position off the tee.  Favoring the left will allow for a clear shot to the green.  Anything to the right will give you a bit of angst for the approach.  The Venus Fly Trap covers the right side of the green and though it might not seem to be in play, just make sure it isn’t.  The green is long so plan accordingly.

Rounding the front is a beast of a par 4.  You are a bit tired and ready for some much needed sustenance but dig deep and finish with pride.  Taking the drive down the left allows for a higher percentage shot into the green.  There is a little sliver of an opening that favors this kind of approach.  The green is elevated and the fairway slightly uphill, so ensure that you take at least one more club; and if it is raining and windy, maybe 2 or 3!

Head into the clubhouse for drinks, sandwiches, and maybe another sleeve of balls.  The back nine could be one of the grandest challenges in Irish Golf… and one of the most spiritual.

The 10th.  Phew.  Pull yourself up by the bootstraps and move along little doggie.  This is a big hole to start the new nine.  If there is ever a time to focus and pull out the stoppers for a good drive, this is it.  The hole is long and narrows out toward the green.  A bomber of a tee shot will leave you being able to navigate the land in front.  A short or wayward drive, just take your medicine and lay up for a nice shot into the green.  The approach may not seem too difficult as there aren’t any bunkers to find but the hairy stuff to the left and right can cause just as much disruption.  A par here and you are off to the races.

The Mighty 11th

A par 5 with one of the best walks in tranquil walks in golf.  So serene, so peaceful, so beautiful.  Forget golf, the 11th hole is just pure joy.  The height of the dunes encapsulates you, embraces, you, cocoons you.  A drive down the middle, a safe second shot to the middle (I play a knockdown just to keep it in the short grass) and then a nice little approach in.  The metamorphosis of this hole is one to write in every design book. Not overly designed and using nature in Her glory.  THAT is true golf.  It is just magic.

The par 3, 12th, is another creation that will make your heart skip a beat.  Ladies, this is a hole for you, so take advantage!  Every tee shot needs to get up as the terrain from start to finish is ever so gnarly.  When the gorse is in bloom, it is a beautiful walk in a garden.  The shot to hit is almost all carry to the green, so pick a target behind the hole and swing to it!  Focusing on the stuff in from will just make you crazy.  More than one ball has been lost in the jaws of the 12th.

Though the tee shot on the 13th an be a bit daunting, this is a relatively easy hole.  Wide open and slightly downhill, the yardage on the card can be a little misleading.  If you can drive your ball, there is a chance to hit the green in two.  However, the smart play is a mid to long iron/hybrid down the left for an easy approach into the hole.  There are a couple of bunkers that come into play both off the tee and into the green, so do your best to avoid.

The 14th is one of the toughest holes on the course; maybe because of the timing of it, maybe the length, maybe just maybe.  Whatever it is, this hole is always a thorn in my side.  Though fairly open, compared to some of the others, the false front gives you false hope.  You are near the sea so the wind is coming at you adding even more yardage.  Suggestion here is to play this as a bogey hole.  Just hit a couple of irons down the neck of the fairway. Make par and you feel like a million bucks!

Another walk in the high dunes, the 15th is a bit of a mysterious par 4.  With a bit of elevation in front off the tee, the spirit of Waterville taunts you to try and lift the ball to the top of the hill.  Rather than lifting, swing through the tee ball and ball will find its own way to the top.  The green is also elevated to anything short will roll back down.  Just keep your spine angle through the shot and the ball will get the right trajectory to land on the green.  Start to take a look around as there are only three to go.

Awwww…number 16.  Picturesque.  A smaller par 4 but a little Engine that Could.  There is actually a lot to this holes, though it may not seem.  A good drive will take you up and over the gorse to the fairway ahead.  Finding the middle of landing area will assure you a nice approach.  The green is steep so, again, allow the club to do the work.  A shot to the middle of the green will leave the luck of the Irish and a good score.  Anything other than that and no four leaf clovers.

Love the 17th hole!  A fun, gentle yet needy, hole with views into the sea.  What is not to like?  Keeping the ball to the right half of the landing area just short of the green will allow for the ball to bounce up to quietly to the putting surface.  The devil is in the details so make sure you caution the wind as it can be a menace.  Play this one smart and you are ready for the home hole, though very sad indeed.

The 17th at Waterville

The 18th at Waterville.  Hard to even describe this hole in words.  There are so many ways a round can end here.  With the beach to the right and thick, heavy grass to the left, it is imperative that the tee shot lands somewhere on the wee grass.  If the ground is hard, then hit a stinger down the middle and just let it roll.  If the wind is mighty, do the same!  Keeping the ball low all the way down the fairway has always helped me stay sane.  The classic bump and run, knock downs can very well be your friend.  Slow down your pace, look all around you, feel your spirit soar, marvel at the time you just spent.  Take a bow toward the sea, to the mountains, to all that is…Waterville.

The course is long, it is hard, it is mentally debilitating.  It is also one of the most incredibly profound walks in all of golf.

Turn and bow to the course...the 18th

Once you tap that last ball in, head into the clubhouse for a wonderful meal at the 1889 bar and restaurant.   Talk from the day, sharing fellowship with people from all over the world, meeting new friends…that is what this magical place is all about.  Perhaps that is why Payne Stewart loved it so much. In fact, it was well known that Payne, Tiger, Mark O’Meara, and a few others would travel to Waterville prior to The OPEN every year.  Rumor has it that many a night would Payne take his talent behind the bar, pulling Guinness and fussing with the lot. What a wonderful time that must have been!

If you are anything like me and yearn for an experience that captures every sense of your being, a journey that will seep into every single cell of your body and move you beyond anything you could ever have imagined, then Waterville should be at the very top of your bucket list.  The town, its people, the nature…how blessed you are if you call it home.

Oh…and don’t forget to drop by the proshop and see Brian Higgins.  Not only is he part of the very infamous Irish Golfing Higgins, but his shop is one of the very best on the Emerald Isle.  His pride and passion are second to none and his soft spoken approach, well…in this day and age…is priceless.

1889 - not a better bar or view anywhere!