It began in Dublin on 19 Grafton Street,

A Scotsman and others together they would meet.

To build a course just north of town,

A Royal name granted straight from the crown.

Located on Bull Island - the north end it would be ,

A links for the ages, with history you see.

Golfers will be challenged and set to the test,

Royal Dublin deserves every bit of the of the crest.

Let’s set the scene.  Men and women in high society Dublin, bustling around the street of Grafton, building 19 to be exact..  It was 1885 and golf had just reached the Irish shores a few decades earlier (at Curragh…south of Dublin).  John Lumsden, a Scottish banker scheduled a meeting in the city for the opportunity of establishing a new golf club on the grounds of Phoenix Park, just over a mile west of Dublin.  It was approved and the Dublin Golf Club was established.  Phoenix Park had a fairly dark period a few years prior, and not to give reason, but it was decided the the club would move to Sutton a year later, and then to its final resting place - North Bull Island in 1889.

Grafton Street - Dublin - in the last 1880s

Bull Island is an island in Dublin Bay, just north of the city.  Steeped in history, the stretch that is slightly over 3 miles long and half a mile wide is accessed by a wooden bridge.  Walls were erected in both the south (first) and north decades late to help with an issue of “silting” in the Dublin Bay.  The “Great South Wall” would be the longest sea wall in the world at the time of construction.  It would be made of piles of oak, baskets of gravel and woven waffles.  Years later a storm would breach the wall an in 1761, a stone pier was built from the Poolbeg Lighthouse back to shore.  It remains there today.  Construction on the “Great North Wall,” or Bull Wall, began in 1820, and was completed in 1825.  Over the next several decades, silt began depositing on the North Bull, eventually building an island.  As it continued to grow from the Bull Wall to Howth Head, enough land formed toward the city end of the island that in 1889, the Dublin Golf Club and its members would be “granted” the space for their new home.

The orignal members of Royal Dublin Golf Club

The year is now 1891, and the Dublin Golf Club has 250 members, each paying an entrance of 8 guinea (£1,1s - one pound and one shilling - over £150 today) and £2 annual (over £300 today).  On May 11, 1891, the Queen of England drafted a letter, sending it from Windsor Castle.  Dublin Golf Club would be granted the name, on her behalf, to Royal Dublin Golf Club.  The letter is in the clubhouse (and shown below).

Photos from the clubhouse - Royal Letter and recognition board, Christy O'Connor "cabinet"

Over the years, the Irish Amateur Open has been held at Royal Dublin 29 times.  The first was in 1894.  In that same year, a visit from the legendary and esteemed golfing great, Old Tom Morris, gave the membership something to talk about for years to come.  Pictures of this event and so many more are displayed through the grounds today.

Old Tom Morris and the men's team of RDGC

To talk about Royal Dublin and not mention Michael Moran would be disrespectful, as he is as much about the history as anything else.  It would be 1886, in a one-roomed cottage, located on the course, that one of Ireland’s most treasured golfers would be born.  Michael Moran would go on to win multiple Irish Professional Championships, and finish third along with Harry Varden in the 1913 OPEN Championship at Holyake, Royal Liverpool.  “Mike” would go on to fight for the Irish army, dying just a year and a half later in the war.

For the next several years, Royal Dublin was used by the British Military for a temporary school, teaching men how to use muskets and rifles.  The members of the club were given a month’s notice before the course was fully taken over and by the end of the “Great War” or World War I, the links would virtually be destroyed.  Tees were trodden and greens leveled.  Everything was shattered.  64 rifle ranges remained but everything else was unrecognizable.  Even the clubhouse was a wreck, dilapidated, ruined.  But this was a new beginning.

Michael Moran, destruction of the clubhouse, Harry Colt to rebuild

In 1920, Harry Colt would be brought in to, first dismantle all of the gun ranges, then design a new championship links.  With a blank canvas, Holt designed a golf course that ran through shallow dunes, weaving throughout Mother Nature’s pure tapestry.  His name, and this design, would bring people from all over the world to Royal Dublin.  It would take one more facelift by Martin Hawtree, but not until 2001, presenting the wondrous links we have today.

Royal Dublin would host its first Irish Open in 1931- and subsequently in 1983, 84, and 85, the clubhouse would burn down in 1943, Christy O’Connor (Himself) would be anointed as the head golf professional in 1959,  the 2000s would bring a new clubhouse and course, and not until 2021 would women finally be allowed to become a member.

Arriving at Royal Dublin, crossing the bridge, turning left into the parking lot, past the welcome sign, you know you are somewhere special.  It is history in every sense of the word, it is golf. The clubhouse shows like the original showcasing the years of the game played on this hallowed grounds.  The proshop is separate from the main building; the first tee is walk between the two.  Check-in to with the very welcoming staff, grab a bag of sand, and head out to the first tee.  Number 9 is on the furthest part of the course so bring what you need.

Welcome to Royal Dublin but take the sand wth you!

So, let’s play the course!

The opening hole at Royal Dublin lays the drama out immediately, though eases you into the round. Relatively flat in the driving area, the tee shot can reach the two fairway bunkers that dot both sides of the fairway.  If you can fly the one on the right, then take the driver out and go.  If you are in that yardage, align yourself to the inside corner of the left bunker and swing.  Well though out and strategically placed, the five bunkers that guard the entry into the green begin 50 yards out.  Sloping slightly to the left, any pull or heavy draw will roll off the putting surface, leaving a cute bump and run, depending on the pin position.

The approach to the first hole at Royal Dublin Golf Club

Chirp, chirp early on.  The par 5, second hole, offers opportunity within the first 30 minutes to take your card low.  A lovely hole on its face, the fairway bunker to the right can be taken on if distance is in your bag.  It will cut off several yards, giving you a better shot into the green (for those long hitters).  Another strategy is to play just to the right of the fairway second bunker left, giving a gentle nudge back to the middle.  A lay up just shy of three bunkers will leave you a short shot in, be it a bump and run with a mid club or perhaps a knocker with the wedge.  The green is slightly elevated so anything left, right, back to front will roll accordingly.

Roll it in for birdie on the 2nd hole

The “Alps” - aptly named for the high dune resting just left off the tee, making it almost blind.  The line is over as the fairway opens to the left.  If this is not in the bag, then play to the right, but just to the right as the rough does cut in and will swallow the ball that finds it.  It is a long hole, but if played correctly will keep you on the straight and narrow.  Even though the locals will tell you that the bunkers are a safer bet than laying up short, I would have to disagree.  The 40 yard sand shot is one of the hardest there is.  If you cannot get it to the green, thread the needle short and rely on your short game.

It was nine feet high, and six feet wide, and soft as a downy chick….Grandma’s feather bed!  The first of three par 3s on the front arrive at the 4, named “Feather Bed.”  It is a short hole but one that rides against the wind, depending on the day.  If so, the bluster can add 1-3 clubs, if not more.  With a few green side bunkers standing guard, one about 20 yards back, shot selection should be to the middle of the green.  However, if choosing between clubs, shorter is better.

Looking back to the clubhouse and Dublin Bay - #4

Slender and narrow is the shot at hand on this par 4, driver taken down the left side of the 5th fairway - hug the large dunes as best you can, but not too close!  The ball will kick into the middle of the landing area setting you up for a mid iron to hybrid into the green.  Two bunkers set back about 60 yards from the green so make sure you can clear those.  If not, play short and then work the next shot in.  The green is deep calling your short game.

Between the high dunes the left and the low dunes riding out to the sea on the right, a parkland of grass resides.  Swales move up and down throughout, giving the walking golfer a workout.  Each side boasts what almost look like hiking/trekking trails weaving in and out of the dunes.  Since Royal Dublin is nature reserve, please be eco-aware and look around.  The sixth hole is a long and bending par 5.  Fairway bunkers line both sides of the landing area off the tee, though the left should not come into play.  Take line at the last trap on the right, or just to the inside.  The ball will bounce to the middle.  The second shot is critical as there is a large mound that hides the green if shooting from the right hand side of the fairway.  A fairway metal or hybrid is the club of choice to bump you down, just shy of the green.  If distance isn’t your forte, then lay up short of the first trap on the left that is about 100 yards out.  You do not want to be in that trap!  The green slopes to the left so the right half of the surface is ideal, regardless of the pin position.

The hills are alive on #6

Just a beautifully designed hole awaits at the 7th.  A par 3 with distance behind it, water short and to the right with bunkers cozying up to the green on both sides.  The putting surface moves every which way with undulations throughout.  Bail out is to the left but bunker beware.  The trap face is high and the step down big.  If you land there, just turn around and hit it backwards.  Tree limbs also come into play so best to just aim to the middle of the green, get there and get moving.

A little harrowing to have a life ring buoy on the 7th!

One of the first doglegs of the course, this one to the left.  Look out in the distance to Howth Head, and take a breath in.  The view is glorious.  Then step up and visualize the ball moving right to left. If you have the distance go ahead and cut the corner left and move the ball down the fairway.  If length isn’t an arrow in the quiver, then play the drive short of the bunker right and send your second shot down the left side.  For the approach, the left side of the green is like slip and slide so favor the right where the ball will roll back down.

Looking down the fairway at #8

Finishing the 9 is ridiculously beautiful, not because of a view or foliage, or even big wild dunes, though they are there.  This par 3 is at the very end of the course, almost the furthest point from the clubhouse.  Gorse and other types of flora splay out between the tee and green. A barrage of pot bunkers, strategically placed in different locations around the green.  Both of these ball catchers make club selection the critical decision on this hole.  There is run off on all sides of the green, so just play the middle.  Knock the putt in and continue to the back nine.

Rounding out the back nine...the beautifully framed green at 9

Rated as the #1 index on the course, the 10th hole boasts a mean and lean par 4.  Fairly wide off the tee allows you to grip at the very top of the club and let the entire shaft out.  In other words, swing out of your shoes!  Landing the ball to the left of the fairway bunker right will give you an opportunity of hitting the green in regulation.  However, if a few more shots are needed to get to the green, make sure you look at the yardage book.  A burn crosses the fairway just short of the green, snaking its way from right to left, following the shape of the green.  The approach shot needs to be at least 10 paces on the surface, and depending on the pin position, even more.  A ridge divides the back third making long putts very difficult.  This is a brilliant start to the back.

As narrow as the burn is, best to miss it at #10

Phew.  The 11th at Royal Dublin.  It might not be the most difficult par 5 but the thinking process does take a few cells.  With a land mine of fairway bunkers lining both the left (two) and right (four), the best strategy is to play either short or bet your luck on threading the needle. This is definitely a three-shot hole, even given a fair amount of distance in your cloak.  The second shot is best down the right side, especially if you can fly the cross trap on the right.  Anything over will start to bounce towards the green.  Be mindful of the burn/trench to the left of the fairway and green

The final par 3 of the course, the 12th, and it isn’t very short.  A ditch about 60 yards before the green does come into play, but with a stretch of benign land thereafter, a shot slightly short of the green, perhaps a 3/4 knockdown or soft hybrid, could be the choice.  There is a beautiful Sycamore tree and behind the green that can be used as a point of alignment, but aim just a wee bit right of it.  The middle of the putting surface is the best thought.  Try to miss the bunkers on each side of the green.  Putts will break according to the rolls in the green, so do take note!

Par 3 - 12th - clouds are coming in!

All about trust on the tee shot off 13.  To give yourself a chance on this long par 4, take it up the left side past the first mound that protrudes into the fairway.  The downhill bounce on the other side should take you further on down the road for a shorter approach into the green.  The target is narrow so take aim and believe in your swing.  If you have the distance to get it home off your drive, then by all means, but if not, the call is to land it short and rely on your short game.  With a long green, a nice little 7 or 8 iron bump and run will cozy the ball down to the hole.

The narrows into the 13th green

The par 5, 14th, is a strong hole no matter the tee you are playing.  From the back, set up for the smoke stacks out in the distance.  From the forward tees, taking the drive over the bunkers left leaves you a clear shot for the second.  Make sure you check the yardage book for the next shot as there is ditch that crosses the fairway about 50 yards out, and a few sneaky little fairway bunkers, both of which are definitely in play.  Lay up for a short shot into a very receptive green as it runs straight toward you.  There is plenty of room between the ditch and the green granting a multitude of shots to play.  Watch the break on this hole!

Going back the other way for the first time on the back nine.  The par 4, 15th, gives you one more chance to look back into Howth Head and the countryside.  Aptly named “Hogan’s” as a 1 iron may have been the choice back in the day.  However, with modern technology, taking the driver down the middle, letting it “ride” the mounds before settling in for the second shot.  There are cross bunkers well down the fairway but very much in play.  There is about 70 yards between the sand and the green, so make sure you take enough club to clear or lay up for an easier, shorter shot in.  The wind can also be a big factor so do consider!  Play the approach a bit to the right as there is a slope off to the left.

Arriving at the 15th green

Turning back to the clubhouse and only a few holes remain.  The 16th holes presents itself at the right time, in the right way.  A very short par 4 raises every hair on your body, tempting you with grain of grass on its belly.  To say this hole is well bunkered is an understatement.  There are seven fairway traps to navigate for any hope to take the green down in one.  If you are feeling the distance, then by all means, take the big club out and go.  But if a low round is in your near future, think about laying up short of the traps for a short shot in.  The green slopes every which way, so just play it smart!

Just two holes to go and the 17th is a doozy.  A long par 4, this hole will eat your lunch if you let it.  But you won't!  The play is over the right bunker if at all possible, and if not, take aim at the last fairway bunker on the left.  There is a water ditch that lines the far right side of the fairway, but this really shouldn’t be in sight.  The approach is big so if there is any thought that you cannot reach it, then lay up short of the green-side traps on the right side.  The green is a bit punishing so play to the middle and save your score.

Awww... the epic finishing hole at Royal Dublin...enjoy!

One of the most beautiful final holes on any course.  From the tee, the fairway is lined by “the gardens” to the right and a burn that slithers in between the fairway and the garden.  Hit it right and there is either a one shot or two shot penalty, as the garden is out of bounds.  The safe play is to set up for last fairway bunker on the left, land it short and take the next shot up the left side of the fairway.  This really is a three (or more) shot hole, so be okay with that.  The approach to the green is framed by the picturesque clubhouse, and on a nice day, a gallery of members surrounding the patio.  Keep the ball down the left half of the green opening for a positive bounce up to the hole.  The green is large, so keep club selection, or short game shot, in mind.

And there you go!  A walk through history on the epic grounds of Royal Dublin.  Take your scorecard, and with a big smile, scoot into the clubhouse and up to the bar/restaurant area.  Make sure you gaze at the photos throughout the downstairs before ascending the stairs.  As you reach the final landing, straight ahead is a “museum” of nostalgia.  The room adjacent to the bar hold memorabilia from Christy O’Connor, Sr. And then the bar straight ahead is a welcome sight after a day on the links.  Royal Dublin might not have some of the drama of other famed Irish courses, but it is equal all the same.  There is no excuse not to play this magnificent track set back in time, and modernized to the present.  It is a gift to golf.

Turned out to be a nice day to see the favorite sighting at RDGC!