Off the beaten trail of grass,

A links of joy for lads and lass.

Warm welcome greets those who find,

An amazing place that will blow your mind.

A track to test every shot in the bag,

Just stay away from the rocks and crag.

The wind will whip as you walk alone,

All a day's play at Enniscrone!

The year is 1918 when golf was already “booming” in certain areas of the Emerald Isle.  It would take a number of local golfers, with a clear vision and a dream, for the game to find its way to the sleepy, but very scenic, village along the Atlantic coast, in a tucked away corner of County Sligo.  Enniscrone Golf Club would be formed, but the actual golf course would take another decade to build.  Until then, the group would play anywhere they could, creating “holes” on Kilcullen’s Field, or near land next to the Scurmore Hotel (closed many years ago).  The first nine holes at Enniscrone would open in 1931, on St Patrick’s Day.  Casually referred to as the “Links at Bartra,” the layout would offer a lovely walk amidst the dunes. Membership would be £1.00.

World War II would present many challenges for golf throughout Great Britain and Ireland.  Clubhouses and courses would be utilized for difference purposes, and the game in general, was on hold.  However, once the war ended, golf would explode, and memberships throughout the country would increase, as it did at Enniscrone.  The club’s desire to extend the 9-hole links to a “proper” 18 would begin to take shape upon the unanimous decision to commission Eddie Hackett, early in the 1970s.  With land as pure as any in Ireland, and where the dunes touched the sky, Enniscrone was slated to compete with any links golf in Ireland.  Until it couldn’t.

Due to many reasons, finances became difficult and the original blueprint that Hackett proposed had to be cut.  A more “pedestrian” version was laid out, completed, and opened in 1974.  The 18-hole arrangement would follow the flats of the farmland, evading the labyrinth of dunes that were to create drama amidst the Hackett design.  As stories now circulate via members that were “there at the time,” Hackett would dream of another nine holes that would create a theater of golf, showcasing the impressive dunes of Ennisncrone.

Land of the giants - Mount Everest of dunes on hole 14

After the death of Eddie Hackett in 1996, the club hired one of the game’s premier designers, Donald Steel.  With enough money in the bank, that clear vision in mind, it was full send for Mr. Steel.  Having been the only designer that has consulted on every British Open rota course, the choice was a good one.  As with Hackett, Steel looked to the dunes, envisioning and imagining a course that would rival any other.  Blending the best that Mother Nature had to offer, with a bit of modern day magic, the powerful and striking Enniscrone would be born.  May Eddie Hackett be smiling down upon the links that he had always dreamed.

Enniscrone is certainly “off the beaten fairway.” Situated along the Wild Atlantic Way, parallel to the Atlantic Ocean, on the north side of the Moy Estuary, land overlooking Scurmore Beach, and up into the Nephew and Ox mountain ranges, it is not an easy place to find, but once you do, pinching yourself just might be in order.  Upon arriving the seaside town, take note (for later) the signs for Irish seaweed baths, then just follow the signs for golf.  The entry might a fair bit unassuming, but what you can’t see, you don’t yet know.  This is the land of the giants.

Subtle welcome to Enniscrone

As with most Irish facilities, there isn’t a bag drop or valet, so park your car (unless you are with a tour), grab your sticks, and head to the golf shop.  Check-in is seamless and so friendly you might find yourself chatting with the staff, so beware of the time.  The course is out and back; having everything you need is key.  Hit a few balls, strike a few putts, and head to the first tee.  Any other course and this would be the optimum shot for the team photo, but at Enniscrone, there are countless opportunities.  That said, take the pic!

Before teeing off, download a bird and flower app.  Sounds a bit corny, but the flat land is keen for Brent geese, curlews, oystercatchers.  The salt marshes are breeding grounds for lapwing, shellack, and cormorants.  The dunes are home to many a hare, an occasional fox, and numerous species of flowers.

Let’s Play the Course!

Belly up to the first tee and get ready for an epic experience.  A par 4, blind dogleg to the right, welcomes you to the round ahead.  Taking the tee, check the yardage as you might be able to hit the first shot through the fairway.  The play is down the left side, leaving it at the corner of the dogleg.  There is a structure basically straightaway so set up to that and swing through and to.  The approach is uphill giving you the first real taste of the monumental dunes of Enniscrone.  Tucked beneath them is the first green, sloping back to front with slight undulations throughout.  Watch the break!

Setting the tone at the first

The second holes comes arrives with a boom.  The tee shot starts within the dunes, through a shoot and into the fairway.  There is a clearing to get there, so driver is the club.  Take it down the left side off the tee to a fairly wide landing area.  From there, the second shot should hug the right side to open the green for the approach, and what an approach it is.  Slightly uphill and straight into the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean, the small green at this stunning par 5 deserves respect.  Short is better than long, there are a few dips and valleys but a bump and run is perfect here.  The putt will break toward the water, the ocean that is.

Number 2 - there is a fairway!

Oh my, my!  The third hole.  This is just a wonderfully designed short hole, utilizing high and low dunes, natural undulations, and Mother Nature’s wonder.  As long as you play target golf on this hole, you will be fine.  Pick a spot, swing to it.  Short is much better than long as trouble is behind the green.  Even though it might look like the right is a bit more favorable, left might be a wee bit better.  Left does have a run off, but right has the teeth of a pesky dune.

The dunes are starting to show - #3

Long and trying carry off the tee on the 4th hole, complete with trench between you and the fairway.  This par 5 is a bugger.  A slanting, but wide, landing area demands you keep it on the right side for any chance of have a decent second shot.  The humps and bumps for the second shot favors the left side, this will provide a clear view to the green.  The putting surface is two-tiered, so check the yardage before selecting your club.  Shoot for the middle of the green.

The next hole provides a bit of peace.  Rather long, but straight, this par 4 offers a wide landing area off the tee, a small fairway bunker off to the left.  Given a good bounce and resting area, the second shot gives you an opportunity of hitting it down the left side into the green.  There are a few bumps in the left and right so carrying it onto the green is ideal.  The putting surface is rather large and rolling so take into consideration the pin position.  That said, middle of the green is always a good call.  The 5th is one to step away with your low score and move forward.

For Whom the Bell Tolls...

Number 7?

It looks flatter, it seems easier, but don’t always judge a book by its cover.  The par 5, 7th, is not at all what it seems.  Squeezing the right side of the fairway off the tee is prudent as the left can cause a few extra strokes.  Continue down the right side all the way until you get about 75 yards out, where middle presents the best angel into the green.  There is a rather cavernous area before the green so taking it in with a full shot is really the play.  Anything short and left will run back down so keeping it right will keep the ball of the putting surface.  Everything breaks right to left so keep that in mind.

En route to the 8th tee, take the trail less traveled to the cute little outhouse… then continue onto the elevated tee for the classic link-style par 3.  Three pot bunkers stand patrol over the green, demanding a higher shot into the green.  There is a nice pathway between the first trap on the left and the single trap right, so if high is out of the cards, keep the line and run it up the middle.  It is the easiest hole on the card, but  am not so sure.  Precision and focus is necessary.  The putting surface slopes back to front so club selection off the tee is critical.

The Lady Golfer's of Enniscrone (wiating on the men in front :)) - thank you ladies!

And the final hole for the front nine, a par 4 that brings beauty into play.  Water is down the left side but really should’t be an issue.  Just take a moment and take in the serenity, the tranquility… the teeth of the course is coming up.  Grab your composure and swing the driver down the right center of the fairway.  It can be quite a carry, so hitting this one solid is key.  The fairway splits about halfway up the fairway, giving rise and elevation to the landing area, but only on one side.  Squeezing the right side will kick the ball back in the middle.  A fairway trap lurks on the left side about 100 yards out but shouldn’t be an issue. There are cross bunkers next to the green that just need to be “flown.”  The green is receptive to a multitude of shots can be played.  Bump and run it or fly it in!

The turn at Enniscrone is a bit uneventful in terms of food, but nothing that the final nine holes won’t make up for.  You are in for a treat as the terrain, design, walk is magical.  Here we go!

Hard to explain the topography...and high grass!

Fairly straight, but not so benign, the 10th hole is a remarkable par 4.  Shorter by yardage, but demanding in everything else.  The fairway is narrow with ups and downs all the way down.  Keeping the tee shot in between the mounds is ideal, which means the middle.  The Moy Estuary is off to the left and dunes are all around.  The views are astounding. The green rolls off on every side and toward the two small bunkers.  Short is a bit better than long, but middle of the green is the best.

Craters of another realm. The 11th hole resembles more of a walk on the moon, or perhaps even Mars, than a hole on a golf course.  If you can delete all that you see from tee to green, huge advantage.  All carry over one of the “hairiest” part of the course.  Ravines and trenches show up in multiple locations, all very much in play, but just look into the distance and pick a target.  Then close your eyes, breathe, open and go.  A two-tiered green requires correct club selection, so make that your focus.  Long isn’t friendly if the pin is front, and short can be an issue for a pin in the back, and if too short, you might find yourself with a different club.

From the tee box at 13

What a fun hole at the 12th.  A par 4 that features a little of everything.  Elevated tee, carry over deep crevasses, marquis dunes, crowned green, steep topography, and a perfectly framed green.  So many holes at Enniscrone can be deemed, “ a favorite” but this truly has to be at the top of the list.  Watch your club selection off the tee as the right side creeps in, inviting any shot too long to reach the longer grass.  Middle is really good as it gives the best chance for approach.  Favor the left side of the green as anything right will trickle back down.

This is another pleasing hole.  Elevated from the tee, the first shot is blind, asking you to trust the location of the white stone that shows you the way.  Uphill for the first 100 yards before quickly taking a downhill and to the right turn.  Yardage is short so check the yardage book for accurate numbers.  The ideal drive takes you to the 100 yard marker.  But it is all downhill from the crest of the fairway.  A pot bunker guards the left front of the green so keep that in mind.  Short right is fine, as is long left.  Anything else?  Brush off the short game.

The 15th

In between the grandest of dunes is a wondrous par 5.  The 14th is a magical hole that requires accuracy and target golf.  Not over long, but so very narrow!  From an elevated tee, keep the tee shot to the right as the second, and possibly third, will benefit from an opening to the left.  The second half of the hole is uphill with a few moguls, so wherever the ball lands, make sure you adjust your setup to be parallel to the land.  The fairway turns to the right at the last minute, giving way to the green that is nestled amidst the dunes, set right against the waters of the Atlantic Ocean.  The putting surface is large, so take note!

Follow the lines of the fairway as they parallel the shores of the Atlantic.  Listen to the waves as you take your stand on the 16th tee box, scout out the sea birds as they take flight over the horizon, and just spend time with you. Then grab the driver, grip all the way up the shaft, and let it out.  It is a fairly narrow landing area, but this is the 16th at Enniscrone.  Favor the right side all the way up until the approach.  The green is very wide, but shallow, and crowned on all sides.  Anything short will either roll back into the front right pot bunkers or down the left side “catch all” area.  Long isn’t much better so keeping it on the putting surface is vital.

Some of the friendliest golfers in all of Ireland - the members of Enniscrone!

As the wind blows… and which way it blows.  The elevated tee brings the gales off the water, slinging the ball every which way.  Throw the grass up, judge the breeze, choose a club, pick a target.  If a 3/4 knock down is in your bag, this is a great time to bring it out. The green is receptive to high and low shots coming in, but does slope dramatically if your shot ends up short or right, or back left.  Middle of the surface is good!

One more to go.  A fair carry from the tee box to the fairway, so take belief in the driver.  However, check the yardage as a series of bunkers can be reach for anyone with distance.  Keeping it short of the bunker left is the play, unless you can split the center.  The approach is one of the most difficult on the course.  The bunker front right is about 45 yards from the green so taking it right over the left edge will give you the bounce to the putting surface.  The green is very large so keep club selection in mind.  Knock that last putt in, turn to the dunes.  Gratitude.

The benches of Enniscrone

The par 3 - 17th looking from the green back

What makes Enniscrone sublimely epic?  The magnitude and altitude of the dunes? Yes.  Challenging test of golf?  Absolutely.  Views that will make your eyes water?  Definitely.  But it is the people.  The Irish are known to be extremely friendly, but the members of Enniscrone take it to the next level. Fun, inviting, welcoming, charming.  It is hard to explain, but they touch your soul, lift your spirit and warm your heart.  There are few places like it.  This is a bucket list!