In a land far away, along the river Glomma, Saint Olaf founded a city nestled beside a grand waterfall. In 1016, now the King of Norway, Olaf named this newly inhabited space, Borg - meaning castle (after Olaf’s castle nearby). It is uncertain as to when Borg became Sarpsborg, or why the change. Sarpr is a Nordic word for “the one who swallows” which could refer to the famed waterfall, referred to as Sarpr Falls. Whatever the interpretation, the city has long been called Sarpsborg.

In 1567, during the “Northern Seven Year’s War, the city was burned to the ground. Half of the population at that time relocated to what is now known as Fredrikstad, a town just down the way. Those that stayed helped rebuild the town by the river, living fairly quietly until 1702 when yet another travesty occurred. A mudslide dismantled much of the ground sending it downstream, devastating the area. Finally in 1839, Sarpsborg once again became a city. Once timber and sawmill driven, during the industrial era, Sarpsborg moved toward manufacturing and refinery. Though now in the post-industrial times, Borregaard is the largest corporation and remains in the manufacturing sector.

From its inception, Sarpsborg carried the perseverance and fortitude of the Vikings and today it is over 1000 years old (celebrating in 2016). With the spirit of Thor and his hammer and Freya through her ability to see the future, this beautiful city is on the rise in the 21st century. Only 63 miles from the bustling capital of Norway, those visiting Oslo take only a car 63 miles south, almost to the Swedish border. The hour and a half drives speeds through tunnels, blanketed countryside and populated little towns.

Upon arriving Sarpsborg, the short distance to Skjeberg winds through city streets to a residential area, and then the golf club. As in many Scandinavian towns, small RVs and vans are welcome and usually one of the first parking areas, as it is at Skjeberg Golfklubb. Given it morning, take a long breath in and let the olfactory senses overload with coffee, waffles (vaffles) , and the like. If it is afternoon, perhaps the grills are out with Norwegian fare smoking and simmering. Whatever time, arriving at Skjeberg not only gets your golfing juice going but those gastronomic ones as well. Just a few meters/yards more and a parking spot is ready for you to shut down the engine and get ready for the day.

Skjeberg Golfklubb is part of the Hevingen area, 1000 acres within the Sarpsborg municipality. Originally the land was desired for housing but with nature and outdoors as the pulse of the community, it was decided that a golf course and multiple walking trails were priority. To fund this project, the municipality sold 150 acres to a private investor (who then split and sold into residential plots). In 1985, Jan Cederholm was commissioned to design the golf course. With much of the land touching the shores of Lake Isesjø, and the remaining area cuddled up in beautiful canopy of trees, fairways were developed with peace, tranquility and serenity in mind. The result is a calm and soothing walk in the woods, albeit your score and ball striking. Skjeberg Golfklubb opened the first of eighteen tee boxes in 1990 (though play on eight holes was available starting 1989). Though carts are available, Skjeberg is a walking course, with your quiver of arrows strapped across your back or pulled behind as you walk the fairways. There is a driving range to get warmed up and a pitching/chipping and putting area available prior to sauntering to the first tee. The proshop is fully equipped with everything you need, including a few extra golf balls…just in case. Grab and go, hit a few shots, test the practice green, clear your head and walk the path to the course beginning. And before you get to the tee, take a gander at one of the funniest signs on a golf course you will ever see!

The layout is not long, rather it is fairly short, but tightness and quirkiness make up for the lack of distance. Imagination was definitely used when pencil met with architectural paper. Both nines meander through the pines with hills and valleys singing through the terrain. Holes 1 - 5 start the test with gentleness and ease. The toughest of the five might not be shown on the scorecard, but at over 180 yards from the back and 150 from the front, it is a good par 3 for the first in the deck. Holes 6 - 9 include blind shots (and the ringing of a bell), the hardest hole on the course (IMO) and the easiest (again IMO). With only one par 5 and three par 3s in the front nine lineup, par evens at 34. The par 4s are well designed, picking up the slack for the challenge. Don’t let it all fool you! The test is real and losing focus while letting your mind wander amidst the beauty of the surrounding will result in a head banger of a score.

Continue along the land of fairies and hobbits as you make the turn. Par reverses with three par 5s and only one par 3 for a uptick to a nine of 38. The carpet lays out longer and the design is just that much craftier. Dog legs, narrow landing areas, elevated greens and tough decisions make for a demanding return to the barn. And if prior inclement weather left any remnants of itself, any extra moisture just adds to the club selection. Holes 10 and 11 are just plain hard in my book. Chances are you might be a bit weary, especially if you are walking so the distance between the markers and the greens lend to long irons and hybrids as you approach. Then the easiest hole on the course makes its appearance. A short par 5 from all tee boxes gives reprieve and a little life before one of the toughest holes, though don’t let up as the greens can be interesting with special reads. Remember where the lake is as the putts do break that way. Trek to number 13, another par 5, but this one with all the boxes to check. Slender and a scrappy and wondrously designed. Finish this and you are homeward bound with a bee in your bonnet for the remaining holes all give you the opportunity to buzz around with glee.

The restaurant at Skjeberg is a treat. Nick a seat outside on a stellar afternoon and you can just sit back and bask in the wonders of the day. The warmth of the Norwegian summer sun, favorite drink in hand, burger (they have vegan ones too!) and fries, friends and hearty laughter. What more is needed in life?

Heldige er livet og hvor heldige er vi? Fra Skjeberg med kjærlighet… (Lucky is life and how fortunate are we? From Skjeberg with love…)