A trip to the Inland Northwest, the eastern part of Washington, and the city of Spokane, may not be the most likely golf trip, but why not? Whether you are traveling for business, or perhaps the Bloomsday Run (an unforgettable 12k foot race through the streets of Spokane), or maybe Hoopfest (largest 3x3 basketball tournament in the world, literally), tack on a few days and enjoy some of the best pubic golf in the country. Spend time amidst the falls that rumble and tumble down the river that splits the city, ride the historic Looff Carousel and stroll through the rose garden at Manito Park. The motto for the city really should be “come for a minute, stay for a million.” There is so much to see, so much to do, so much wonder to be grabbed, so let’s get to it.
1909 - craftsmanship and wonder - Looff Carrousel
I might be a bit biased writing this feature/blog as “The City of Lilacs” is my home town, my heart, my soul. Arriving Spokane is always a bit nostalgic as my family goes deep into the carpentry of the airport. Of Swedish decent, via Ellis Island and a transcontinental train ride, my grandfather arrived Spokane in the early 1920s, looking for that American dream. Along with many of his friends they would become layman, building much of the city as it is today, including the original airport. Walking off the tarmac and into the terminal, I always look up into the tundra, the main part of the airport, close my eyes and give a bit of thanks. Home will always be home.
The infamous clock tower on the Spokane River
No surprise that the back can be a bit tight, or the legs have a few cramps, after the flight or drive in. It always amazes me how far northwest Spokane is until the hours pass before landing in the city that hosted the World’s Fair Expo 1974. But being the west coast, time is “gained” in flight so landing around noon can afford an initial walk through a wonderfully illustrious park and track of green, providing a chance to stretch out, take in the surroundings, getting to know the grass. Sounds a bit weird, but the grain really is different! I try to get in as close to noon, 1pm, as possible so that a late afternoon round near Riverside State Park, amidst the aura of the pines, can be had.
Stretching the legs at Downriver GC
Growing up playing Downriver GC (AMW course review here) in junior events, high school tournaments, it is like a step in time, a long time, and not much has changed. I always love how simplistic, welcoming and lush this course usually is. The years that have passed have only allowed the maturity of the grounds, the trees, and the history. And though Downriver might be the biggest test of the week, it is a gentle opening and a gracious chance to straighten the legs and arch the back.
After the round, and perhaps a beverage at the terrace deck, a short drive downtown and either the Davenport Grand or Davenport Hotel is my selection to rest my head. There is so much history to the latter, being the first hotel in the United States with air conditioning, a pipe organ, a central vacuum system, housekeeping carts and accordion ballroom doors. The hotel was built in 1914 as a place for unparalleled service, palatial architecture and warm welcomes. It truly is one of the most remarkable hotels in our country with beautifully hand-painted frescoes, ornate woodwork and meticulous marble inlays. Until the Davenport Grand was built, it was my favorite place to hideout, to step back 100 years, to roam the halls of history. On the opposite side of the spectrum is the Davenport Grand. As with the original, they are both Marriott Bonvoy properties, but the Grand is contemporary, new, modern. It also overlooks Riverfront Park, the Clock Tower and the Spokane River. Regardless of the choice, I look forward to every minute of my stay once I know a trip to Spokane is on the schedule. And true to form, my first night religiously takes me to the Iron Goat for a local brew and some of the best vegan food around. And according to many local friends, the best pizza and carnivorous fare as well. It isn’t hard to bend any friend’s arm to meet for a quick bite, perhaps trivia night, and a laugh or two.
The Historic Davenport Lobby
Mornings in Spokane are divine, though not as it once was. Growing up, downtown was as safe as going next door. My parents would give me a quarter for a bus ride that would take me to friends, shopping, roller skating, movies, etc. At Christmas the Crescent (a department store no longer in existence) would showcase imagination and creativity through the most intricate and decorative window displays, taking you through Christmas Past, Present and Future, opening hearts to hope and possibilities. Taking drives down Riverside with your pals, complete with leather jackets, big hair, red lipstick, would create memories and legacies that would mold you would become. It was a special period, not necessarily innocent, but safe. Time hasn’t been kind to the era once known for “Leave it to Beaver” and “Happy Days.” However, the city is trying and every time I return, it is noticeably “better” than the last. So, with safety as my first measure, grabbing a coffee at Inaba (my favorite) and taking a walk through the Riverside Park is always on my agenda.
I love playing my second round of the trip at The Creek at Qualchan (AMW golf course review here). My juices are revved and my body yet to tire. I try to get a mid-morning time so that I can start the day with a walk through the Japanese Gardens at Manito Park. As a place where nature, tranquility and beauty harmonize, it is my go to for morning golf intentions, and just overall calm. It was completed in 1974 (in time for the World’s Fair) as a gift in friendship from Spokane’s sister city, Nishinomiya, Japan. It reminds me that there is a peaceful center to us all.
Nishinomiya Tsutakawa Japanese Gardens in autumn
Walking Qualchan can be a bit of a bear so food is key after the round and nowhere better than Luna on the South Hill. Riding my bike down the streets so many years ago, who would have thunk that a beautiful little cafe would take place of a few friends homes! The food is grand, the drinks even better, and the service just as you would expect as swanky neighborhood spot would be.
The 18th at The Creek at Qualchan
My third day in Spokane basically duplicates the second, and for that I am always grateful. Coffee, walk, but this time a soothing traipse through the rose garden at Manito Park, and then a short drive down the hill and through the plains to the beauty of Hangman Valley and Latah Creek Golf Course (AMW golf course review here). I grew up playing, then Hangman Creek Golf Course, bearing my teeth at the aqua range, driving a golf cart over the edge of the 5th hole (oh yes I did!) and learning how to play the game. A mid-morning time here gives opportunity to either take a drive to Coeur d’Alene (a completely separate bucket list) and a walk or bike ride around the lake or perhaps a good old fashioned nap and gondola ride down the Spokane Falls, capped with a drink at Clinker Dagger’s. And my dinner of choice after Latah is always Mizuna. Great wine bar with fabulous food, not far from either hotel. And if timing is right, a night at the Spokane Opera House, now First Interstate Center, provides a moment of theatrical and musical entertainment.
The Roses at Manito Park
Back in the day, Spokane Country Club was next to royalty. Being one of two private golf clubs in the city (the other Manito, where I grew up), Spokane CC was host to multiple charity events that would bring in top names. Johnny Miller, Jack Nicklaus, Lee Trevino, Arnold Palmer, Gary Player…and the list goes on. You had to be invited to play and when you got the nod, it was special. Due to a lawsuit, and loss, the club was sold to the Kalispel Tribe of Indians who have since opened it up to the public. Kalispel Golf and Country Club (AMW golf course review here) is a gift to play, dine and experience. A nice leisurely morning for breakfast (at the hotel or Frank’s Diner - one of the more unique places in town) and a soulful walk-about through the meticulous pathways of Gonzaga, gets me ready for an early afternoon time at Kalispel. And due to the time of day, I usually meet a friend or two after the round for a drink and dinner at the 1898 Public House, conveniently on the club’s property. Day number four is in the books.
To say that I love Indian Canyon is an understatement. It is the icing on the cake, the cherry on the sundae, the bow on the present. Regularly regarded as one of the best public/municipal golf courses in the country, Indian Canyon Golf Course (AMW golf course review here) is one to marvel. I love getting to the golf course early morning, coffee in hand (see a pattern here?), all with knowledge that I am walking spiritually historic grounds, and a great golf course to boot. And if I have my druthers, for this course in particular, give me first tracks with a bag on my back, and sunlight just about to part, any and every day. With probably 50 rounds under my belt, though most so many years ago, the scenery just never gets old. And with the airport only 10 minutes, that first tee time out gives enough time to get to a flight, even though it might connect to a red-eye, but it is worth it.
The opening hole at Indian Canyon... make it personal
Spokane may not be on a golf’s major bucket list, but then again, isn’t golf about the walk? And a Mindful one at that? Opening up to different locations is the best part about our game as it is different everywhere you go. The grass, topography, history, animals, food, air, surroundings, it all changes from place to place. What a gift to play this crazy game, and what lessons and memories it gives.
Now for a few tidbits:
Airlines that fly into Spokane: United, Delta, American, Alaska, Frontier
Davenport Hotels: www.davenporthotelcollection.com
Bloomsday Run - www.bloomsdayrun.org
Hoopfest - www.spokanehoopfest.net
Best time to play in Spokane: most of the courses are closed November - March, open April - October. My favorite times to visit the area and play golf are May (lilac and rose blooming) and late September/early October (maples and oaks, fall foliage).
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